“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”

You can’t but trust the sartorial wisdom of a man whose dying words are said to be “either that wallpaper goes, or I go”! Oscar Wilde, that deliciously fashionable man, might have called fashion a ‘form of ugliness’ in all seriousness but Wilde’s brand of gravitas is mock-solemnity at its best.

Today’s clutch of fashion weeks, especially at the beginning of the celebrated spring-summer season, seems to vindicate Wilde’s opinion. The kurti was hot last year, (some say it still is) while the kurta is gaining ground (yet again). Those god-awful paisley and animal prints were crawling all over the ramp but, (Thank God!) they are apparently going to be mopped up this time around. That’s not all. There are enough new clothes and designs to stump the most-informed-of fashionistas. Add to that every second magazine and newspaper’s list of ‘what’s hot and what’s not’ and you have a nice sartorial dilemma brewing. At the risk of adding to the confusion, we attempt to give some idea about what to wear and what not to, this season. Jump in!

Jodhpuri pants are in

Fashion designer Manoviraj Khosla predicts that churidhar trousers and Jodhpuri pants will be the ‘fashion discoveries’ (re-discoveries rather) of the year for men. “There will be a lot of embellishments on the trousers and playing around with fabrics. I also predict a revival of the 60-70s style,” he says. His autumn-winter collection, to be showcased at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2008 next month, consists mainly of texturised denims and synthetic versions of suede. As far as colours are concerned, your old crayons should be your inspiration. Pinks, purples, lime-greens, blacks and whites are all in. The idea is to make it as eye-gouging as you can.

Deepika Govind, another Bangalore-based designer, believes that the kurta is all set to be re-invented. (No, it is not going to become a kurti, let us assure you...there is still hope for those slim waists, hidden by last season’s silhouette -challenged kurtis!) “Uneven hemlines with a good deal of layering will go down very well.”

Look like a vagabond

The idea is to project a slovenly, vagabond charm. So go in for unusual sleeves such as the diamond-shift sleeve, a petal sleeve etc. Mis-shaped voluminous skirts with rag-tag edges are also a great choice, she feels. There’s no escaping those prints, she warns but, for those who detest them, there is the option of indented textures, ribbed and ruched blouses and ruffle layers.

Kitsch is out

Deepika believes kitsch is definitely on its way out and mixed colours such as mulberry, light teal, ice blues, corals and russets are going to sneak in, amidst all those bright yellows and fuschias. Her fall/winter collection focuses on Indian textiles with a fusion of western elements. “There’s a lot of ikats, which I have specially woven myself, oak-tussar and satin silks combined with wool in rich colours such as coffee brown, midnight blue and coral reds,” she adds. Designer Anupama Dayal believes motifs such as overblown roses, miniature Mughal flowers and irises will be all over the ramp. “The trend this year will be a mix of ethnic and urban, high street and couture. For instance, exaggerated shoulders with fitted jackets will look great as will voluminous tops in dull colours with bottom-revealing low-waist pants,” she suggests.

Tunics are hot

And ah! tunics. It is predicted that tunics will be the coolest piece of clothing you can own this year. These long, free-flowing dresses can be combined with pajama pants or full skirts in colours like aquamarine, coral and light grey. Also, single-shoulder outfits (especially re-invented sarees without full blouses) will be ummm...very hot. Anupama’s latest collection is all about the freedom-seeking woman. Basically, very loungey and very loose. A blessing, one would imagine, for those of us deceived into believing in the ‘pleasantly plump’ theory.

Accessories 

The general mood in footwear is a lot of frivolity. Platforms are definitely back with a bang but they are all curved and sculpted... a little like Rambo dressed up as Johhny Depp. Fat and wedged at the sole, flowery and satiny near the toe.

Peep toes in patent leather are oh-so-in. But those awfully flat flats are out. (Really, you might as well go barefoot). Florals are still all over the catwalk, so you won’t go too wrong if you trip for flowery sandals.
When it comes to jewellery, the past is the inspiration, say designers. Light gold jewellery, especially the matte versions in traditional designs, are classy this season. There is still a lot of bling so keep an eye on those diamonds. But crystal and similar shiny stuff is losing its sheen.

Make-up is  still sheer, I am afraid. Colour, colour and colour and as bright and glittery as you can make it. All that jazz about the nude look has well and truly been replaced by the overdone and in-your-eye blushers and lip colours. Gloss has won over matte and eye-shadows in colours like deep purple, icy blue and olive green are hot.
So there! All the fashion fundas you needed. Indulge!