For centuries, Tibet, a small nation of only six million people, has been a strange, remote land, whose people possessed an enviable talent for happiness. One-fifth of them are monks whose life is spent in meditation and prayer. In 1949, Mao Tsetung invaded Tibet. The peace-loving Tibetans left their motherland, journeying across the mountain terrain into Nepal and subsequently into Gorakhpur, from where they made their way to Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh and made it their main base.
The Government of India offered shelter to the Tibetan refugees. Karnataka has five settlements, of which Gurupura near Hunsur in Mysore district is one of the most important places.
Within a short span of time, these people gained the confidence of locals and made friends with them. They have industriously turned the camp into a little Tibet village. The Rabgayling settlement at Gurupura, with its Gymed Tantric College, is a jewel in the crown of Tibetans and is referred to as the holy monastery.
Every day, just before sunrise, reverberating voices are heard punctuated by the chiming of bells and the drone of cymbals. It is prayer time or derthor for monks who assemble in the main hall called Tsokhang for their daily rituals. The idol of the deity, an imposing structure, is in pure Tibetan style, sending one into a trance.
The monks sit in rows and chant their prayers. Sacred water is served in drops from Chub to all the monks. After an hour, the monks are served butter tea, called Jadung, which is also offered to the deity.
The interior of the prayer hall is quite decorative. A number of Buddhist religious scroll paintings called Thankgas are hung from the ceilings. Multi-coloured Kapens cover the pillars. The revered pedestal has a portrait of the Dalai Lama and the Mandala or the God's House is to the right. The one at Gurupura is called Yemendaga or the God of Power. Offerings such as jam, ghee, butter, etc. are placed in seven bowls made of silver and brass.
Junior monks are admitted into the monastery after they take an oath to strictly adhere to the tenets laid down by the Tantric School. Senior monks wear yellow robes and have a special headgear and young monks wear maroon claret robes. Senior monks descend into deep meditation and one of them leads the prayer chants, the tune of which is unique for the monastery. Scholars obtain the Geshi Degree only after thirty long years of study, including the works of Mahayana, Vajrayans and Chakra Samvara.
Realising the need for educating young monks on modern lines, a school has been set up so that they can become modern monks in this modern world. The colony members have a woollen carpet weaving centre and a milk dairy. Once a thick forest with plenty of trees and wild animals, the settlement has turned into a small tourist spot. Visitors can stay at the guest house built in the camp. The attached canteen serves vegetarian food.
Travel tips
The nearest railhead is Mysore. Gurupura is only 60 km from Mysore via Hunsur through a good road. Frequent buses operate from Mysore in this route to Hunsur. Taxis can be hired from Mysore and autos are available from Hunsur. Overnight stay is possible at the PWD Travellers’ Bungalow at Hunsur.