Science of food

As winter sets in, Sudhir Nair takes you through the discipline behind different cooking ingredients that help in healing and staying healthy

Food and festivals are synonymous in our country. The historical and geographical diversity only amplifies the distinct characteristics of culinary offerings here.

In a country where states in the north, south, east and west use different ingredients, all our cuisines follow an age-old science that gives food a distinct identity.

North, South, East, West

With extreme climates in the north, winter demands for inclusion of different ingredients in food.

During winters, ghee and nuts are used in dishes to keep the body warm, while summer calls for a lighter diet with juices and buttermilk.

Since the southern states stay pleasant most of the year, a lot of yoghurt is consumed to keep the body cool.

Every province has a cuisine panned out of ingredients grown or processed in the same region.

Kerala uses peppercorns and coconut to add a hint of spice and flavour to the dish. Even oil used in certain regions is according to what is available in the area. In the south, dishes are primarily cooked in coconut oil or sesame (gingelly). The east has ample supply of fish from the rivers and ocean and they love their rice and mustard seeds.

Despite the varied elements, a common thread that binds the nuances of cooking is the scientific acumen and knowledge of all ingredients passed down through generations of mothers, khansamas and folklore.

The right proportion of specific spices or herbs in the dish, balance of acidity to alkaline pH, temperature of cooking, serving and preservation, are principles demonstrated in Indian food.

Most people look down upon a halwai, but he can judge the temperature of sugar with just his fingers. Though not trained with the nuances of food science or standard recipes, he can dish out hundreds of delicacies with just milk and sugar. He knows exactly when the milk will curdle and can reverse it with baking soda.

Tricks at home kitchens

In a traditional south Indian home, rice and lentil are ground in the night using a heavy stone crusher for the idli batter. This is not just because one doesn’t get time in the day, but because the stone is cold at night and helps maintain the right temperature while grinding. The humidity and cool temperature of the night are perfect for slow fermentation which results in a perfect batter. If the batter is too cold, you can add a bit of sugar in it and if it is hot, add a bit of salt.

In the north, the same principle is followed for masalas and pastes, which are prepared for curries and kebabs.

Traditional Indian food is made of unprocessed and organic ingredients such as cold-pressed oils, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, fresh turmeric, jaggery, pulses and millets.

Goodness at home

Age-old recipes have always had their own healing powers.

Rasam, loaded with the goodness of asafoetida, curry leaves, turmeric, pepper and lentils, is good for common cold and cough.

Raita, made of yoghurt is served with spice-filled biryanis. Curd rice is consumed at the end of a spicy meal.

Solkadhi (kokum drink) is had with hot Maharashtra meals to cool the stomach.

Mustard greens (sarson ka saag) not only accompanies makki di roti but also makes it easier to digest.

Ladoo made out of gond (an edible gum) is given to pregnant women as it eases muscular pains, regulates hormones and helps in lactation.

The spicy kadha (a combination of spice extracts) and a spoon of honey can treat any respiratory infection.

When injured, hot turmeric milk helps the body to recuperate faster.

Sattu (roasted Bengal flour) is India’s own protein supplement drink.

Kanji (fermented black carrot drink) is the best probiotic drink which cleans the gut and strengthens the immune system.

For better absorption, curcumin from turmeric and peppercorn help as a catalyst. Both of these exist in our masala powders.

Fresh green chillies boost the immune system, strengthen the heart, and also ease depression and stress.

When to eat matters, too

Our ancient texts and books have documented not only what to eat but also when to eat it. The practice of fasting once a week is a way to reboot the immune system and clear toxins within.

The Hindu calendar is filled with days of fasting that spreads over the year. Most of the fasting occurs exactly at the cusp of seasonal changes when the body is at its weakest.

Ghee and sweets made with sugar during Deepavali (after fasting) help sustain one through the winter months.

Thandai during Holi will keep you cool during the summer.

Sesame and jaggery ladoos in January, refresh the body for the change in weather.

(The author is executive chef, Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru ORR)