Uttarakhand’s hidden gem

The persistent roar of Bhagirathi rushing by was the dominant feature when we wearily stepped out at Gangotri late in the night after much uncertainty and delays as the route from Dehradun was blocked just the previous day due to landslides. Gangotri, one of the Char Dham sites, lying at about 10,000 ft above MSL, is as much a temple town in the mountains as can be, with its small guesthouses, and myriad shops peddling wares for the pilgrims. The tiny town, precariously perched on the banks of Bhagirathi, tightly packed between mighty mountains on either side, presents a pretty picture indeed. Gaumukh, presently considered to be the very origin of the holy Ganga, lies 18 km further up (probably, the effect of omnipotent climate change), and can be accessed only by foot.

Our trek to Kedartal was to start after a day of acclimatisation in Gangotri, during which we were mandated to trudge a few kilometres, visiting local attractions like Suryakund, Pandav Gufa, Gowrikund, and the like. The Suryakund, where Bhagirathi joins Kedar Ganga, plunging down a small waterfall, is indeed a pretty sight, with its amber, lunar-like hue. The Ganga aarti, performed every evening at the Ganga Mandir is something not to be missed. The temple, with its bright white exterior, presents a spectacular sight, especially in the lit-up state at night. The trek started after an early breakfast. The initial route of the trek follows the Kedar Ganga River, rushing far below for the most part, once cascading down as an impressive waterfall. The trek path at times becomes a narrow ledge clinging perilously to the rack face, high above the roaring river.

The first day’s trek of about eight km covers a mix of pleasant stretches among Bhoj Pathar trees, steep ascents, rocky patches, crossing of a few streams beneath some delightful waterfalls. The beautifully conical, snow-covered peak of Thalay Sagar in the distance acts as a beautiful beacon for the trudging path. The camp for the first night was set up at Bhoj Kharak, named after the Bhoj Pathar trees which abound the place. Bhoj Pathar gets its name from the fact that the ancient rishis used its bark as manuscripts to write on.

A valuable precaution followed during high-altitude treks was when we were taken to a further height of about 200 metres above our camp before we stayed put to enable natural acclimatisation which is very important to prevent AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), which is quite likely at these altitudes. Bhoj Kharak lies at close to 12,000 ft. The myriad hues of the sky, before the setting in of the night, at this desolate place, provided a mesmerising experience.

The second day’s trek proved much more treacherous, though the distance covered was only five km. The trek started with a sharp climb, which shortly got us to cross the tree line. Then came a steep descent to the level of the gushing river, followed by a hard climb through loose rocks. This area is considered a trifle dangerous owing to the possibility of falling rocks, and the trekkers are required to wear helmets on this stretch. A further ascent along a narrow path brought us to the broad plain of Kedar Kharak, where our camp for the next two nights was set up. This locale, at about 14,000 feet, was highly picturesque, with two streams flowing along the sides. We were lucky to spot a herd of Blue Sheep, albeit at some distance.

It was bitterly cold in the morning till the sunlight reached our camp, which took a while as the meadow is surrounded by tall mountains. The trek to the summit again started with a stiff climb along a narrow ridge, till we reached a rocky plateau. The progress from this point consists of small, but difficult ascents and descents among big boulders. It is a boon that path markers, comprising of conical rock piles, are kept along this stretch, otherwise one is quite likely to lose their way. Another steep ascent took us to a ridge overlooking the Kedartal, which was our final destination. The turquoise-coloured lake, ringed by lofty, snow-covered peaks was a stunning sight and took our breath away. It was a wonderful experience to quietly sit on a rock by the side of the serene lake, meditating on the splendours of this beautiful planet.

The descent from the camp, all the way to Gangotri, which is done in a single day, was again pretty hazardous, especially in the loose-rock, and slippery-gravel sections.

The challenges on the trek make one appreciate the reason why Kedartal is rated as one of the most difficult treks in the country.