My dear reader, we often encounter in our garden a plant that seems out of sorts. Its leaves droop, discolour or curl at the edges. Some leaves might develop spots or unusual patterns. How do we interpret these changes? What’s the best way to care for a plant when it’s not at its best? In this month’s column, I’ll strive to unravel some of these mysteries.
Let’s begin with how water affects a plant. The common problem many gardeners face is either under or over-watering plants. Wilting leaves sometimes indicate that the plant is parched. The plant hangs its head and its leaves are spiritless. You touch to see that the surface beneath the soil is dry. Now, how much water is needed? Do not flood the plant with a bucket of water. Pour water in small quantities until the water drains through the hole.
Sometimes plants cry out when you feed them too much water! In this case, the leaves and stems turn yellow, and the whole plant wilts. Often, overwatering can trigger root rot, turning the roots soft and mushy. This happens very commonly with succulents. Remove the plant from its pot and check the roots. Healthy roots are firm and white while rotting roots will be brown or black and possibly have a foul smell. Wash the roots in flowing water and shake the excess water away. Trim away the rotting roots to see if you can salvage the plant. Leave it to dry in a cool place away from sunlight for 24 hours. If there are healthy roots left, repot the plant in fresh soil. Water sparingly but regularly. With a bit of luck, your plant buddy should bounce back. The above advice is for plants that are grown in a container. Plants in soil bounce back faster, and usually, there is no fear of overwatering, except in some cases.
Nutrient deficiencies
Yellow leaves can also be due to nutrient deficiencies. Nitrogen, a plant’s best friend, can lead to telltale signs when in short supply. The older leaves are affected first. They lose their lush green hue, becoming pale or even yellow.
Iron deficiency paints a different picture. Here, the younger leaves turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves stay green. Iron isn’t as movable as nitrogen within the plant. So, an iron shortage can make young leaves yellow first, while older ones stay green longer. To improve the iron content, the soil has to be first checked for its pH and then iron chelates added. Occasionally, you find yellow leaves with their edge browning. This is potassium deficiency.
When older leaves turn red or purple, it might be time for more phosphorus. Amending the soil with bone meal or other phosphorus-rich organic material can repair the imbalance. Apart from nutrient deficiencies, leaves can also reveal the presence of plant diseases, such as fungal, bacterial, or viral.
Fungal diseases often materialise as leaf spots, powdery growths, or blights. They are best managed by promoting good air circulation around the plant, watering at the base to avoid wetting the leaves, and, in severe cases, using appropriate fungicides. Bacterial diseases typically cause water-soaked leaf spots, usually surrounded by a yellow halo. Management includes regular pruning, proper plant spacing, and, in some instances, the use of antibacterial treatments. Viral diseases can lead to patterns or mosaics on the leaves, yellowing, or leaf curling. These are the trickiest to handle, as there is no cure once a plant is infected. Sad plants have a story to tell. As caregivers, we have to listen, decipher the silent language of plants and act accordingly. Every wilted leaf, every browning edge is a chapter in a plant’s life, and understanding it is our responsibility and privilege.
Motley Garden is your monthly kaleidoscopic view into a sustainable garden ecosystem.
The author believes that gardening is not just about plants and how to nurture them. It is also about bees, butterflies, insects, flies, and bugs that make it their home. She is on social media as @neelavanam