For me, any trip is incomplete if I don’t discover the history of the place, which most of the time, is reflected through its heritage monuments found in almost every nook and corner of our towns and cities. They silently tell us about the bygone era and take us back in time.
The one place that comes to mind when I think of such gems is Aurangabad, a prominent city of Maharashtra. Aurangabad is located on a hilly upland terrain in the Deccan Traps and is the largest city of the Marathwada region. And for many explorers and history enthusiasts, it is an important transit point before visiting the well-known world heritage sites — Ajanta and Ellora Caves.
Exploring Aurangabad before visiting these caves could be a good option to learn a few lessons in history. Here, you will discover a Buddhist influence as there are 12-rock cut caves and also learn about the Yadavas of Devgiri who built the Daulatabad Fort or the Mughal influence which is reflected in monuments like Bibi-Ka-Makbara and the not-so-known tomb of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Interestingly, the city is named after him. Aurangabad has an interesting mix of local, Mughal influences and it is reflected in its architecture, cuisine and also in handicrafts.
I spent around two days exploring this place before heading to Ajanta and Ellora Caves. Out of these two days, one can reserve maximum time to discover the massive Daulatabad Fort. This fort is 18 kilometres away from the city and is built on a 200-metre high conical hill. It consists of not only palaces and huge wooden doors but even has temples, mosques, step wells, reservoirs, and hammams. The most impressive structure is the Chand Minar or the Tower of the Moon which was built in 1445 by King Ala-ud-din Bahmani to commemorate his capture of the fort. It is believed that the tower was inspired by the Qutub Minar of Delhi.
One unique thing is the Andher Nagri, an old tunnel that is completely dark and was built to confuse enemies and to throw them in a trap. It is quite an adventure as one has to grope in the dark with bats for company. Trekking up this fort has its own adventure, especially the last point, where one can get a beautiful panoramic view of the whole city. Along with its architecture, this fort is famous for another reason. Did you know that in the year 1328, Sultan Muhammad-bin Tughlaq shifted his capital from Delhi, here? It was he who named this place as Daulatabad (abode of wealth) from the original name of Deogiri. Shifting the capital was considered a radical decision as there was a mass migration of people from Delhi here in the 14th century. But, due to many reasons eventually, the capital was shifted back to Delhi within a few years. This fort, because of its strategic location and the strong protective defence, was known as an impregnable fort. Many rulers captured this fort and it changed many hands, till the Nizams of Hyderabad took control of it in 1724 AD.
After that exhaustive trip to the fort, I wanted to spend some quiet time. And the next location was just that — Bibi-Ka-Makbara. This monument is sometimes termed as Dakkhani Taj (Taj of the Deccan) as its façade may remind you of the Taj Mahal at Agra. However, it has its charm and beauty. Speaking of Aurangzeb, I came to know that this place also has a tomb of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It is located at Khuldabad, about 27 kilometres from the main city. When we imagine a tomb, especially during the Mughal era, we think of its grandeur and scale-like of Humayun’s Tomb at Delhi or one of the wonders of the world — Taj Mahal at Agra. But, this is totally unlike them as this tomb is a simple red stone slab, with a hollowed centre and it is covered with white sheets in a built-up place on a raised marble platform and surrounded by carved marble walls or the jaalis. It is an open grave that looks at the sky above and has a plant on its side.
The caretaker of this area then informed me that it was the last wish of Aurangzeb to bury him near the shrine of Sufi saint Sheikh Zainuddin and to keep the tomb as simple as possible and open, facing the sky. It was indeed a different experience when you hear and read about an emperor, but his tomb is like a reminder about the ultimate realities of life.
The last leg of my historic journey was to visit yet another historic site — Aurangabad caves. These caves are not as grand as compared to Ajanta-Ellora. But, they are a must as they work as a prelude for those caves. They are located 2 kilometres away from Bibi-Ka-Maqbara. One has to trek up a hill to explore these caves. They were carved out of soft basalt rock during the 6th and 7th centuries and reflect the Buddhist influence. It’s a serene place and ideal to explore during evenings. And the whole vibe of the place will just calm you down. So, next time when you are planning to visit the beautiful Ajanta and Ellora Caves, make sure you keep some time for Aurangabad. Get a taste of its history and heritage, which will enrich
your experience in many ways.