Harissa.
Credit: X/@aiburza
Srinagar: As winter chill sets in the Valley causing dip in mercury, traditional ‘Harissa’, a mouth-watering mutton delicacy is in huge demand with both traditional brick-and-mortar shops and online platforms witnessing increased sales.
‘Harissa’, a winter-special delicacy of Kashmir, tempts people living here so much that whenever they choose to relish some special dish in winter, it comes first to their mind.
Surviving the onslaught of junk food, old city Srinagar is dotted with many ‘Harissa’ shops but famous among them are mostly located in Aali Kadal and adjoining areas. Braving bone chilling cold, people in small groups jostle through dense fog in wee hours and swarm around these unique shops.
Noticing the increasing demand, food joints have joined the ‘Harissa’ bandwagon, offering the dish to consumers across Kashmir.
Babar Chowdhary, Managing Director of a famous food-chain in Srinagar, highlights the enduring popularity of ‘Harissa’ during the winter months. “Its demand is never dull. In fact, with each passing day, its popularity is on the rise,” said Chowdhary.
He said that packaged ‘Harissa’ has become a convenient option for those who can’t visit traditional Harissa shops, and it also serves as a delightful gift sent to loved ones outside Kashmir.
His views were echoed by a young woman entrepreneur who sells the delicacy on online platforms such as Gatoes and FastBettle. She has even been able to ship ‘Harissa’ beyond J&K.
“It’s getting popular outside. I receive orders from all corners of the country. Many non-resident Kashmiris place orders for their old parents in Srinagar, so that they don’t have to come out early in the cold mornings to buy,” she said.
Though the high-calorie delicacy requires long hours of preparation and is costly, people still prefer it due to its unique and attractive taste. If you have eaten ‘Harissa’ once, you simply cannot ignore it, goes the old saying in Kashmir.
Some historians attribute its origin in Kashmir to Central Asia, which influenced the art, custom, rituals, belief and the food-culture of the Kashmiris. And thus they got the blessing in the form of a flavoursome delight, now known as ‘Harissa’.
Zareef Ahmad Zareef, a Kashmiri poet and an authority on Kashmir’s cultural history traces roots of ‘Harissa’ to the Mughal period.
“Mughals used to boil sheep feet known as Pacha to make a kind of Harissa. It was during Afghan rule of Kashmir that Harissa was formally introduced in its present form in the Valley. At that time the economic condition of Kashmiris was so weak that they could not afford to relish the delicacy. They boiled turnips as they were cheap as alternatives to Harissa,” he said.