Pkhali is often served on a charcuterie board.
ILLUSTRATION BY AUTHOR
Situated at the crossroads where Europe meets Asia and was once part of the great Silk Road, Georgia, a gem of the Caucasus, is renowned for its cuisine that proudly reflects the country’s dramatic past and geographical design. Influenced by neighbouring countries and diverse cultures over centuries, Georgian gastronomy is a delicious amalgamation of ingredients, spice mixes, recipes and cooking techniques that the Mongols, Greeks, Arabs, Turks, and traders from around the globe brought with them as they passed through its lands. Creative Georgians added their twist to all those delicate flavours and aromas, giving rise to a brand-new cuisine to suit their palate while keeping Georgia’s identity intact.
A vegetarian-friendly fare
Think garden-fresh salads with walnut dressing, juicy dumplings, hearty stews and gravies, succulent grilled meat skewers, appetising spreads and a variety of cheeses and bread to pair with it all. While red meat, dairy, dough, eggplant, walnuts and tarragon feature heavily in local staples, there’s no dearth of freshness and flavours that come from the abundant use of seasonal fruits and vegetables, fragrant herbs and a variety of mild spices. This also means there are ample plant-based options and vegetarian and vegan travellers wouldn’t feel the need to reach for a pizza or a plate of pasta when travelling around the country. Most dishes with meat and dairy have a veggie version with tomatoes, eggplants, mushrooms or potatoes, making savouring local cuisine a whole lot easier and delightful.
A supra invitation
There are ample contemporary restaurants and hole-in-the-wall eateries where you can sample Georgia’s regional cuisine and wine but nothing compares to a home-style lavish supra which reflects the country’s warm hospitality, ancient customs and traditions, vigorous spirit and more. Supra, which translates to “tablecloth,” is a traditional feast organised on special occasions. It consists of a generous spread of local favourites and countless toasts by the Tamada or a toastmaster who is often eloquent, intellectual and witty. While every region in Georgia has its own set of must-try dishes, here are some of the classics:
Khachapuri: The first thing you’ll likely eat after setting foot in Georgia is Khachapuri — a gooey, cheese-filled bread that comes in more than a dozen different forms. It could be open or closed, pillowy soft or flaky like parathas, and with or without egg yolk. Part of its charm is that it varies by region. One of the most popular versions looks like a boat and is stuffed with local sulguni cheese and topped with an egg yolk and a cube of butter. The rule of thumb: Break the egg yolk and stir it into the soft, white cheese. Dab butter onto the crunchy crust and dig in.
Khinkali : The giant Georgian cousin to the delicate Asian dumpling, Khinkali is shaped like a modak, filled with a soupy mix of raw, minced pork and beef, onions, chilli pepper, cumin and herbs, boiled and served steaming hot. The unofficial national dish of Georgia, Khinkali originates from the mountainous regions and is hence called ‘shepherd’s food’. There’s a way to eat it: Hold it by the stem or the topknot, sprinkle some black pepper on the base and take a small bite. Slurp out the soup and juices before you eat the rest and discard the topknot. The idea is to relish it without spilling even a single drop of the soup. If you’re a vegetarian, opt for Khinkali stuffed with cheese, mushrooms or potatoes.
Pkhali: Dressed up and full of colour, a Pkhali platter is one of the most inviting dishes on the Georgian menu. More like a vegetable pâté or a spreadable salad, Pkhali is mainly cooked vegetables and boiled greens pounded with walnuts, garlic, mountain herbs and spices, shaped into little balls and garnished with pomegranate seeds and walnuts. Spinach, beetroots, carrots and aubergines are commonly used for making Pkhali, often served on a charcuterie board.
Churchkhela: The first time you look at bundles of jewel-toned churchkhela hanging in the bazaars of Georgia, you could easily mistake them for colourful candles or some kind of sausages. In reality, churchkhela is a candy made by threading walnuts, dipping them in a thick mixture of concentrated grape juice, sugar and flour, and allowing them to air dry for about five days. Since Georgia lacks dessert options, churchkhela, also known as ‘Georgian Snickers’ could gratify your sweet tooth.
Kharcho: Hailing from the Black Sea region of Mingrelia and now a staple all over Georgia and other former Soviet countries, Kharcho is a nutty, piquant and comforting beef stew. Some versions are thick and creamy with ground walnuts and spices while others are more broth-like and speckled with rice.