Curry Laksa.
Credit: Getty Images
Some of the world’s greatest dishes are born from the clashing of different cuisines. American pizza is one of Italy’s greatest exports. And Gobi ‘Manchurian’ is as beloved in India as butter chicken. When bold cuisines come face to face, the result is greater than the sum of its parts. Singapore is one such bustling culture that’s made up of Malay, Indonesian, Chinese and Indian populations. This melding of cuisines has produced a unique food scene that has breakfast joints where you can munch on kaya toast, and late-night eateries serving dosas and idlis. Chinese Buddhist fare, Arabic specialties, and Western classics; all fuse in this Asian island nation. On a recent trip to the city-state, I dove head first into the flurry, the freedom and the fun that Singapore had to offer, and came back with a longing for more.
In 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles and the British established Singapore as a trading post, and eventually a British colony. Geographically the country is surrounded by Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and China, and it was the centre of the trade routes of British India and the Far East. This unique position made it a place where immigrants came and settled and were always passing through. And the cuisine reflects that.
Breakfast of champions
Breakfast in Singapore is incomplete without the famous kaya toast. So as soon as I landed, I headed to a Kopitiam, or coffee shop to sink my teeth into one. Kaya is a creamy spread made of coconut milk, sugar and eggs. In Malay, ‘kaya’ means rich, and that’s the perfect way to describe the jam. When spread on crispy toast and paired with a Singaporean Kopi or coffee, it is indeed the breakfast of champions.
The famous Hawker Centres of Singapore are a cultural icon. These open-air food courts are the heart and soul of the country — from meeting points to late-night hangout spots — they serve many purposes for the community. Bursting with a variety of cuisines, mostly from China, one can pick up steaming bowls of noodle soups, rice with protein and seafood, and desserts like Ice Kachang here. In fact in 2016, two stalls — Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle, and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle — made history by winning Michelin Stars.
When in these Hawker Centres, one must try the unofficial national dish of Singapore — Hainanese Chicken Rice. The people of Southern China’s Hainan province have taken their cuisine far and wide — from San Francisco to Southeast Asia.
In Singapore, this dish originated during the Second World War and consists of poached and sliced chicken, rice, a spicy chilli sauce and fresh cucumbers. Born out of a humble time when rations were low, it is the simplicity of flavours that makes this dish a favourite.
Food on the move
Singapore is very fast-paced. And there is a 7/11 on every street corner and every train station so you can grab and go what you need. Don’t be fooled by its exterior that looks like just another corner store. You can find hot ready meals, noodles, bowls, beers, sandwiches, snacks and microwaves to heat what you need. On a leisurely late-night walk with my friend, I picked up an Onigiri (a triangular rice ball wrapped in seaweed), and a brown sugar Boba Tea (you will definitely come back addicted to these). If you’re feeling homesick you can also have a piping hot biryani!
The Chinatown chapter
Hands down, the best neighbourhood in Singapore is Chinatown. The paper lanterns, the street shopping, the snacks! All make it the most vibrant area. To my delight, there was a thriving community of vegetarian Chinese restaurants in this area. Though not all Chinese Buddhists are vegetarian, a large number of them practise it and meat is banned in the temples and monasteries. My friend and I made our way to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in the heart of Chinatown and dined in their humble canteen too. Mock meat, vegetables, noodles and salads are the usual fare. After visiting a couple more vegetarian Chinese restaurants, I noted the stark difference between this and what we know (and love) as Chinese food in India, and the difference lies chiefly in ingredients. Think monkey head mushrooms, tofu skin, lily bulbs, bitter gourds and bamboo piths.
Walking around in Chinatown, you will be struck by a distinct smell in the air. And that’s the infamous Durian fruit. So pungent it is, that the trains in Singapore have signs saying you will be fined for even opening one while in transit. Vaguely similar to ripe jackfruit, but even more pungent, this tropical fruit’s smell has been described rather unkindly by foreigners and travellers over the years but is a beloved snack in South East Asia. The fruit is sweet and like a custard apple in texture but with more vanilla and caramel notes. Walking around Chinatown, you can grab a few slices of it from the many street vendors.
If you are an adventurous eater like me, don’t let the smell deter you! But there are also many other snacks to dig into in the streets of the neighbourhood too — roasted chestnuts, dim sums, Nasi Lemak and crispy carrot cakes are what I’d suggest.
The saying ‘there is something for everyone’ may be a cliché, but holds true for the cuisine of Singapore. Its umpteen malls have food courts with global cuisines, fast food chains from the West, Indian temples boasting food from all four corners of our country. All this along with a buzzing nightlife encapsulates the essence of South East Asia.