En route Changla Pass.
Credit: Photo by author
Travelling through Ladakh felt like stepping into a dream. We journeyed across barren mountains under endless skies, along narrow, winding paths that cut through rugged terrain. Pristine streams appeared unexpectedly, and we were greeted by the smiles of locals tending their cattle and sheep. The experience awakened a deep sense of bliss within us.
Ladakh, once a magical Buddhist kingdom and now a union territory, is a land of high passes, snow-capped peaks, and arid landscapes. It is one of the world’s highest inhabited plateaus. As we descended into Leh airport, the breathtakingly rugged terrain captivated our minds. Following the advice to acclimate to the altitude, we spent our first day relaxing and exploring the charming Leh market in the evening.
Exploring Leh
Our first destination in Leh was the Leh Palace, a 17th-century royal residence built by King Sengge Namgyal. Though not the elegant structure one might expect, its rustic charm and Tibetan-style architecture made it fascinating. The nine-storey building, now under the care of the ASI, stands as a testament to history. Next on our itinerary was the Shanti Stupa, perched on a hilltop offering panoramic views of Leh and the surrounding landscape.
We also visited Sangam, the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers, framed by dramatic mountain ranges. Here, we opted for a beginner’s rafting experience on the Zanskar River, which proved to be an exhilarating adventure amidst stunning scenery. Another highlight was the Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, steeped in legend. It is said that in 1517, Guru Nanak Dev was attacked by a demon who hurled a boulder at him. The rock miraculously turned to wax and captured the demon’s foot, leading to his repentance. The holy stone inside the gurudwara was a humbling sight.
On our way back to Leh, we stopped at the Hall of Fame, a museum that honours the bravery of Indian soldiers stationed in these challenging terrains. The museum’s exhibits, which detail the strategic importance of the region and commemorate soldiers who died in the Indo-Pak wars, left us deeply moved.
Khardungla Pass & Nubra Valley
The next morning, we set out for Nubra Valley via Khardungla Pass, the world’s highest motorable road at 17,982 feet. Along the way, we encountered enthusiastic biker groups and paused for photos at the pass. Beyond Khardungla lies the Nubra Valley, renowned for its stunning landscapes, ancient monasteries, and unique culture. We visited Diskit Monastery, home to a 106-foot-tall Maitreya Buddha statue that offers incredible views of the surrounding area.
In the cold desert of Nubra Valley, we took a scenic ride on a Bactrian camel, a unique experience made more special by the striking sand dunes and the valley’s rich history as a trading hub along the Silk Route. Even today, Nubra Valley is known for its woollen textiles, made from pashmina, as well as its apricots, almonds, and walnuts.
Pangong Tso, the Jewel of Ladakh
Despite all the excitement, our most anticipated destination was Pangong Tso. Early in the morning, we embarked on a rugged journey from Nubra Valley to the lake. The first glimpse of Pangong Tso was surreal, and the feeling lingered throughout our visit. At around 14,270 feet, straddling the India-China border, this saltwater lake is the highest of its kind in the world. The crystal-clear water, set against a backdrop of golden mountains, reflects the sky in stunning hues of blue, green, and sometimes red, depending on the sunlight. Featured in the movie 3 Idiots, the lake has gained immense popularity for its beauty and remote location.
Camping by the lake under a star-studded sky was a serene experience that made time feel as if it had come to a standstill.
Our return to Leh took us via Changla Pass, another high-altitude route with steep valleys and avalanche-prone hills. It was a thrilling journey in its own right. Before reaching Leh, we visited Thiksey Monastery, an impressive gompa with a large statue of Maitreya Buddha, and stopped at Rancho’s School, made famous by 3 Idiots.
In Ladakh, both the journey and the destination are magical.
For the altitude...
Acclimatisation is crucial to avoid altitude sickness.
l Stay hydrated and avoid overexertion.
l Permits are required for tourists; guides or hotel staff can assist with this.
l Oxygen cylinders can be rented in Leh before travelling to higher altitudes.
l Dress in layers as temperatures can vary greatly between day and night.
l Don’t miss local delicacies like thukpa, momos, Kashmiri Kahwa, and butter tea.