The assemblage of Indian single malts is breaking the idea that great whisky can only be imported. The fact is thoroughly established with brands like Amrut, Paul John and Indri Trini taking centre stage and winning accolades on global platforms non-stop.
India has been making whisky since the late British era, but it has primarily been grain based. While the complex alcohol can be made from any grains, including wheat, rye, corn etc., malt whisky is distinguished due to its main component, malted barley.
Hemanth Rao, the founder of Single Malt Amateur Club, shares some historical context.
“Mohan Meakin made whiskies, but its consumption was limited to defence personnel. It wasn’t until 2004, when Amrut Distilleries decided to build a single malt portfolio, that the category was recognised. Initially, they sold only outside India.”
A good single malt requires natural ageing for its mature flavours and complexity, making the production time arduous and long. Amrut was the first mover in the single malt segment from India, and its products were presented and marketed with "Indian single malt."
“Six-row barley sourced from the foothills of the Himalayas and the distillation and maturation in the unique tropics of Bengaluru were the real selling points for us,” elaborates Ashok Chokalingam, Head of Distilling & International Sales at Amrut Distilleries. “Overall sales went up by 25 per cent, and we hit the ceiling now as we have sold what we have!”
Today some of the most notable names in the sphere include Amrut, Paul John, Rampur, Kamet and Indri as the latest entrant that has already won over eight awards since launching in March 2022. Diageo introduced Godawan in May this year in international markets; a premium single malt that is the embodiment of the brand’s commitment to the conservation of the Great Indian Bustard, its namesake.
Single malt here is made from indigenous six-row barley grown and matured in select barrels of different types of wood casks. Indri uses ex-bourbon, ex-wine, and PX sherry casks, adding an unusual trinity of woodiness.
The brains behind Indri Trini is Surrinder Kumar, a Master Blender who has also worked with Amrut in the past setting up its single malt programme. Kumar attributes the roaring success of Indri Trini to “the virtue of possessing the right matured quality whisky inventories, in a combination of quality barrels and master craftsmanship.”
The brand has 40,000 barrels in stock with plans to add another 30,000. Amrut’s latest launch is Amrut Fusion XI, and Paul John is ready to release its fifth in the series Christmas Edition 2022, around late October.
Picadilly Distillery, which makes Indri, has been building an Indian single malt portfolio as they partnered with Goa-based Peak Spirits to launch Kamet in early 2021. Ansh Khanna, Co-founder of Peak Spirits, states, “Kamet is matured in a combination of wine and sherry casks, giving it a vinous complexity. I feel India has all the right weather conditions for making single malts.”
Uniquely Indian terroir, signature style of its own and premium pricing have helped the single malts to capture ground in a global market rapidly.
Vinayak Singh, a whisky connoisseur, doing knowledge and tasting sessions through his initiative The Dram Club, puts the responsibility of building a legacy to the brands. “It will be interesting to see if they continue to create more such amazing offerings 10 years from now, then we will know whether it is here to stay.”
(Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay is a Goa-based independent marketing professional and an avid traveller and foodie exploring new ideas in food and beverages)