Keeping the rich tradition alive

Married into a family of Banarasi saree manufacturers in 1993, it was “way too obvious” for Roli Mehra, a B-Com graduate to turn into a designer and experiment with Banarasi weaves, which is rich in gold and silver brocade, zari and silk. “I used to visit our factory and observe the weavers and their creations. It was then that I started understanding different nuances of the saree and gradually started getting more involved,” Mehra tells Metrolife.

However, it wasn’t until 2008 that she began her label ‘Roliana by Roli’. “I noticed how, over the years, the weavers had started diminishing, owing to migration to cities for better jobs, and I didn’t want the beautiful art to die. Also, I felt it was the right time to take on responsibilities after so many years of marriage and children,” says the mother of two.

With a range of intricate designs on salwars, lehengas, dupattas besides sarees, Roliana, has been using innovative weaving techniques in their collections. “Having witnessed centuries of handmade textile tradition, these sarees have seen many changes in preferences of colours, patterns, motifs, borders and styles. From floral patterns, animal and bird depictions to ‘butidar’ designs to Islamic patterns like florals and ‘jali’ or ‘jaal’ and the more recent geometrical patterns, we produce a lot of variety,” mentions Mehra, who is all set to showcase her collection at an all-day summer festive exhibition on July 12 at The Ashok.

Organised by Purnam on its 10th anniversary — a community organisation that works towards promoting entrepreneurship, the event will host exhibitors from clothes, shoes and accessory designers to beauty and home decor. It will also showcase design and innovations in select labels on the lines of Make in India.

“Unconventional and creative techniques are employed in the collections because the modern consumer, especially, the youth expects more in terms of designs and variety. I love experimenting and understanding new styles,” adds Mehra.

She has experimented with colours like sea green, sunflower yellow and beige, which is a departure from conventional hues like jamuni (purple), red and pink.

Apart from being passionate about the weaves, Mehra is doing her bit by supporting them. “While my in-laws have insisted on skill development ever since we began manufacturing over 100 years ago, the need of the hour was to keep the morale of weavers high by understanding their needs and upgrading their skills,” says the 43-year-old.
 
However, over the years, the Banarasi silk handloom industry has been incurring huge losses because of competition from mechanised units that produce Baranasi silk sarees at a faster rate and at cheaper. “While a good banarasi saree made by hands would range from Rs 80,000 to Rs 1,60,000, those made on the power loom costs anywhere between 12,000 to 13,000. Most customers do not have the eye to discern the difference in terms of quality and detailing, and opt for whatever costs less. It’s such a shame that people who were in the handloom industry are now resorting to power looms because it increases production. That is why awareness through workshops and exhibitions is what I am aiming for,” says Mehra.