Over the last decade and a half, Ganga Singh, a resident of Sankri in Uttarakhand has witnessed his village transform from a picturesque landscape into a concrete jungle. The chir pine trees on the snow-capped mountains have made way for multi-storied hotels, hostels and homestays. The lush green meadows and farms next to this village today have large uncovered pits with human waste.
Situated at the foothills of Himalayas, Sankri is the gateway to seven trek routes in India.
“Till 2015, 100-150 foreign trekkers would have made Sankri their base camp by pitching tents. Then, there were only 400 families living here. However, today, we have lost most of the forest cover, as more than 200 hotels, 45 hostels and around 300 homestays have mushroomed in this tiny patch of land,” Singh told DH over the phone.
More than 100 villagers, including Ganga Singh, have started a “silent revolt” against “outsider” hoteliers and tour operators, demanding that they take only the permitted amount of tourists per season. He says unregistered tour operators from various parts of the country offer trekking packages at low costs, resulting in a huge influx of tourists.
“Our protest is to protect our fragile land. Drinking water gets contaminated with human excreta from the large pits dug in farms once the ice starts melting. Local tour operators are unable to compete with the star hotels set up by outsiders,” he says.
The village is also a base camp for pilgrims and trekkers who wish to visit the Kedarkantha peak, one of the most sought-after trekking sites in India. To witness the first sunrise of 2022, more than 3,000 ‘tourist trekkers’ had assembled on the Kedarkantha Peak, which can accommodate 1,000 people.
The Kedarkantha trek route is open only between December and March and the peak sees the highest footfalls during the Christmas-New Year week, as the landscape is still covered with a thin layer of snow and the temperate is much more conducive to trek the 20 km route and the 3800 m peak.
“There was a stampede-like situation on the Kedarkantha peak (in 2022). People were pushing each other to behold the sight which spanned few minutes," says Mussoorie-based seasoned trekker Aman Panwar.
“The day after tourists left the place, the base camp looked war-torn as the entire campsite was filled with alcohol bottles, cigarette butts and snack wrappers. The farms where locals used to cultivate vegetables were dotted with large pits that collected human waste,” Panwar adds.
Kedarkantha, Baraadsar lake, Devkyara, Bali pass, Ruinsara trek, Borasu pass and Har ki Dun treks, starting from Sankri village, are sought after by trekkers due to their moderate toughness. Each trek is designated easy, moderate, difficult or extremely difficult based on the hardship and difficulties one can face during the trekking. The influx of tourist trekkers in large numbers should have brought joy and income to the locals, but it is clear from the local community’s “silent revolt” that the benefits outweigh the costs.
“Tourists have helped generate employment and revenue, resulting in reverse migration among the locals but unregulated tourism has contaminated our water sources and fields. We are witnessing landslips and landslides. There is a constant fear among locals that Sankri could be the next Joshimath,” says Singh.
India, with its diverse landscape and vast geographical expanse, is considered a trekker's paradise. From the majestic Himalayas to the scenic hills of the Western Ghats, India has a plethora of trekking trails that cater to all levels of experience and interest.
While the Himalayas are home to some of the highest peaks in the world, the Western Ghats offer trekkers a unique opportunity to be up close to evergreen forests and waterfalls.
However, overcrowding in fragile geographies and unregulated trekking has become a pan-India phenomenon. Recently, the Karnataka government had to restrict entry of people to all trekking sites after more than 3,000 adventure lovers descended at the base camp of Kumarapravatha in Dakshina Kannada district, a popular trekking destination in the state, on the Republic Day holiday.
Ecological threat
If the Kashmir Great Lakes trek, the Chadar trek in Ladakh, the Roopkund trek in Uttarakhand, the Sandakphu trek in West Bengal offer breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks, the Nilgiri trek in Tamil Nadu and the Kodachadri trek in Karnataka offer a glimpse of unique flora and fauna of Western Ghats. The Araku Valley trek in Andhra Pradesh is also popular among the trekkers as it gives a peep into the Eastern Ghats. The Ladakh and the Spiti valley offer a diverse range of rugged terrain trekking experiences.
This unique diversity, combined with improved transport connectivity and social media influence, has led to unbridled growth in India’s trek tourism.
Even though this growth has generated jobs and revenue, there is resistance from locals, environmentalists and a few industry insiders, who fear that the rush could nip the booming industry before bloom.
Experts say trekking, which was once considered the best means of getting close to nature, as it leaves behind a negligible carbon footprint, has become a huge problem. Unregulated and unauthorised trekking not only impacts the sensitive ecology of the Himalayas and the Western Ghats but also puts the life of people at risk.
Risks involved
Take for instance the June 2024 incident, when nine trekkers from Karnataka lost their lives after being stranded while descending the Sahastra Tal trek in Uttarakhand. Tour operators reportedly failed to conduct health and fitness checks on participants — some of whom were senior citizens. One reason why the group suffered high casualties, is a low ratio of guides to trekkers.
The Uttarakhand trekking guidelines mandate the presence of experienced guides with every group during high-altitude expeditions. However, local tour operators claim that such guidelines are just on paper.
“The biggest challenge in the Himalayas is to keep the flocks together with compromised eyesight and changing weather,” says Aritra Mahapatra, a flock leader and certified mountaineer.
He says in the high altitudes of the Himalayas, the weather is unpredictable. Conditions are bound to change after 12 noon. Waking people early to ensure that time is not lost and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are among the major issues that trek operators face.
“We carry water, food, medicines and life-saving drugs. If things are in order, there are no problems at all,” says Mahapatra.
“What is key to success is proper acclimatisation. If that is done, the rest falls in place,” he adds.
He recalls how a man twisted his leg and could not even stand during Kedarkantha trek. “Thanks to the time and resources we had spent on emergency planning and backup, we could rescue him,” he said.
While Himalayan trek routes face the challenges of avalanches, AMS and unpredictable weather, the Western Ghats is home to thick jungles and wildlife, presenting its own set of challenges.
“Human behaviour is an issue in the wild. We have to ensure that people listen to instructions and do not take unnecessary risks. We have seen leeches, scorpion bites, bee attacks, snake bites,” said Mumbai-based veteran naturalist Shardul Bajikar.
He says in the wild, one is dependent on weather, geography and geology. A major issue in the Sahyadri Ranges is that there is no centralised registry. This problem exists with the Himalayan treks as well.
“We should know who is going where. Knowing the route, map and having a backup plan is essential,” he said, pointing out that Kalsubai Peak, the highest peak in Maharashtra, has had a huge queue.
Demographic
According to a survey conducted by Thrillophilia, trekking and mountaineering are India’s most preferred adventure sports in India. Tour operators and experts say Indian trekkers are now overtaking foreign trekkers in numbers.
Recent trends show that age is no bar – children as young as 11 as well as senior citizens are seeking out activities that provide an adrenaline rush. Studies have shown that trekking or camping near nature has health benefits, acting as a stress buster, improving physical fitness.
For Bengaluru-based research analyst Akshatha M, trekking brings her out of her comfort zone. “The Goechala (in Sikkim) odyssey helped me understand myself. At those high altitudes, where giving up is not an option, despite altitude sickness, I realised that I could push myself to reach the summit. It showed just how physically and mentally strong I am,” she said.
Taking the right decision is imperative to avoid mishaps. For instance, in May 2023, a team of seven trekkers from Pune, along with their expedition lead Umesh Zirpe, were only 200m from the summit of Mount Meru, a 6,660 m-tall mountain located in Garhwal-Himalayas in Uttarakhand. Scaling this mountain is considered a feat in India.
Despite continuous snowing for two days, the team had reached this height. However, before they reached the peak, after 35 days of climbing, the weather took a turn for the worse. Zirpe had to make the tough call of pulling back his ‘troupe’.
“Mountains are always there. We can come back again. But our lives are precious,” said Zirpe, highlighting the importance of respecting nature and not making decisions motivated by bravado.
The team eventually scaled the mountain in August-September.
Zirpe’s decision also highlights the need to undertake such adventures only under the guidance of those who have experience. Reports suggest that a majority of tragedies that occurred during trekking or mountaineering expeditions are due to compromised safety.
The craze for selfies and reels at such sites is also resulting in casualties. Every year, the waterfalls of Uttara Kannada and Belagavi report deaths after visitors cross the danger line.
Training and preparation
Swathi Chatrapathy, a leading trekking organiser, said given the length and breadth of trekking spots in India, it is difficult for the governments to develop policies and rules that fit all. The onus of making trekking safe also lies with individuals. “It is always advisable, especially for the beginners, to start trekking with a recognised organisation that does not compromise on safety,” she said. Indiahikes is a leading trekking organiser in the country.
Trekking and mountaineering are not leisure sports. They require rigorous physical training and mental conditioning. “Be aware of the route that you are trekking. Read about it. Equip yourself with the necessary safety instruments, lifesaving medicines and others. Most importantly, check if you are physically fit enough to complete the task,” she said.
Selecting the right organiser is vital, say experts. People are increasingly influenced by social media influencers and decide to trek on a shoestring budget.
Rakesh Pant, a co-founder of Trek The Himalayas, a leading trekking organisation, says, “Social media and movies have glamourised a serious adventure activity as a causal and fun activity. A cursory Google search throws up a list of several unregistered and unauthorised individuals offering cheap packages. Often, such organisations cut corners and compromise on safety measures."
He urges that the government monitor the sector and stresses the need to impose safety measures in order to make trekking sustainable. Another area that requires intervention is trekking routes and camping sites.
In Karnataka, preferred trek routes in the Western Ghats loop around waterfalls or involve reaching a height to watch the sunset or sunrise. Most treks also involve walking through dense thickets. Some of these water cascades are in protected areas and wildlife sanctuaries where entrance is denied. “Given porous boundaries, some venture into protected forest areas to make merry. There have been several incidents when people have fallen into waterfalls and died,” said wildlife activist Giridhar Kulkarni. He supports banning entry to such places.
Policy and regulation
The founder of the Bengaluru Mountaineering Club, Neeraj Malve, says such knee-jerk reactions may not be the right approach.
“We need people to understand and appreciate nature’s beauty and that can be achieved only when they go near it. When banned, people tend to find alternative routes to reach the place resulting in more casualties. Instead, regulate the number of people visiting these places, and put in place safety measures. Instead of government and machinery like tourism or forest department managing it, allow gram panchayats, and village development committees to monitor the sites. Revenue thus generated can be used for the development of the village,” he said.
Unfortunately, not all states in the country have strong regulations and guidelines in place. Uttarakhand, Sikkim and Himachal Pradesh are exceptions and have formulated rules on how to conduct treks and ensure the safety of humans. However, most states are yet to put in place a mechanism to protect the ecology and serenity of the place. Littering and open defecation remain the biggest challenges on the trekking routes.
Leave No Trace or LNT is a crucial principle that can remedy the situation. Tapan Pradhan, a Sikkim-based tour operator, says only a few trekking routes, particularly those passing through protected forest areas, have a zero plastic disposal policy.
Arjun Majumdar, co-founder and CEO of IndiaHikes, says trekking transforms the lives of individuals. He adds that both the central and state governments are bringing in measures to regulate the industry. Some are visible and some are not, but the journey has already begun and governments are slowly bringing in changes.