Sikkim on a whim

Trekking through the forests of Sikkim leaves Arti Das with a feeling of organic bliss

Kanchenjunga as seen from Gangtok, Sikkim. PHOTO COURTESY WIKIPEDIA 

Scenic views on the trekking route. PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

Trekking through the forests

Sometimes when Plan A doesn’t work, then be sure that Plan B will be more exciting and adventurous. That’s what we experienced during our visit to Sikkim, situated in the north-eastern part of the country, which is known for its natural beauty, culture and now also as the first organic state in the world.

Our initial plan was to explore north Sikkim which is known for its scenic mountains, lakes, waterfalls, etc. But, as soon as we landed in the capital city of Gangtok, we were greeted with incessant rains. This dampened all our plans to visit the northern side of Sikkim, as it resulted in flooding of roads and even landslides.

We had five days in hand with some sketchy details about a trek through the border villages of Sikkim and West Bengal to reach our next destination, Darjeeling. So, we went ahead and decided to take things as they come. We started our journey by travelling to, Jorethang, which is around 80 kilometres from Gangtok. We planned to spend the night here and head to a place called Okhrey from where you can visit the beautiful Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary.

Jorethang for us was full of surprises. We thought it would be a small little town, but it is actually a major town in South Sikkim situated on the Rangeet River. It is a planned town with proper lanes, with assigned space for shops, restaurants, etc. It also has green spaces, gardens, and a monastery on a hillock. We loved this place so much that we spent another day here, just soaking in the vibe of this place.

The next day we took a taxi to Okhrey which took us three hours. This place, which is now emerging as a hill station, is a pretty village where houses are dotted with flower gardens and green fields. Prayer flags give you company all along the way. Here, we spent a day visiting the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary that’s known for the rhododendron trees. This whole forest turns red when its flowers bloom in March and April. We missed the view of the magnificent Kanchenjunga mountain from here as it went hiding behind the heavy mist and rainfall. This forest is unlike any other I had seen before — different shades of green, ferns, moss, including wild strawberries all along the way.

The next day we started our trek. As we had not planned this trip in detail, we asked locals about the route and they said it is doable in two days. We aimed to reach Darjeeling after two days. So, we didn’t waste much of our time and started walking. This route is quite simple as we walked through villages. Sometimes we asked locals to guide us as there were chances of us losing our way. It is considered a DIY (Do It Yourself) trek and that’s fun because you get a chance to walk according to your own pace, take stops whenever you feel like, and no one to disturb you. But, when you are trekking on your own, you have to be more responsible, be aware of the route, carry lots of water and food, and most importantly ask for help whenever you are in doubt. So, with these points in mind, we went ahead.

The first pit stop was the Gorkhey village which is in West Bengal. You just have to cross a small wooden bridge to reach here. There is also a forest check post to make an entry. This place is dotted with homestays as it is a base for many treks like the Sandakphu Phalut. Here, one can take a break, have lunch, freshen up and move ahead.

We then headed to a small hamlet called Samanden. This place was no less than a dreamland with meadows overlooking pine trees, mountains, fields, and small houses with quintessential flower gardens. However, we couldn’t spend much time here as it was necessary for us to reach our next destination, Rammam, which is situated at 8,400 feet above sea level. We were told that it will take us four hours to reach Rammam and it was almost 1 pm and we were quite tired. It looked almost impossible but then in such a situation, it is important to remain focused and just keep walking. So, we made it to Rammam within four hours. There are some small guest rooms and homestays where one can spend the night. These are quite basic, but just perfect after a hard day’s trek. What I loved most about such homestays is the view from the room which is breathtaking.

On the second day, we started our journey from Rammam to Srikhola — the last leg of our trek. We reached our destination by afternoon. We spent a day in a humble homestay and relished some amazing Nepali cuisine. The warmth of locals, the scenic beauty of the place, and exploring these wonders on our own, made the whole trip worthwhile.

I have trekked to many places in the country right from the Western Ghats to the Himalayas. But, this trek was something different. Here, we were on our own. No guide, no immediate help. Just us and our intuition. This experience was a lesson in staying focused and taught me how to deal with uncertainties. The next day we took a taxi to reach our next destination, Darjeeling, which is around 60 kilometres away. Here we woke up to an enchanting view of Mt Kanchenjunga — the mountain which we kept chasing throughout our trip.