<p><em><span class="italic">Roti</span></em>-making is an art. Right from how you knead the dough to how long you rest it, and from how you roll it to how you roast it, making a perfect <span class="italic">roti</span> is a skill that comes with practise. So how did this art form become a political tool?</p>.<p>It happened in the mind: Some, that were paranoid, others, that were agreeable. An incremental relay was taking place across India in February 1857. In the cover of darkness, <em><span class="italic">chowkidars</span></em> were running to adjoining villages to hand over <span class="italic">chapatis</span> to their counterparts with the instruction that each recipient was to make more of them and pass them on to the next village. Within days, almost the entire country was in the grip of a <span class="italic">chapati</span> stir with no one quite sure what it signified. The Indians who received them interpreted it as some sort of a sign and the spooked British thought the natives were up to something seditious. This, “most mysterious affair,” as a British official described it, came to be dubbed the Chapati Movement.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Humble musings</strong></p>.<p>Mercifully, the humble <em><span class="italic">chapati</span></em> is back to being what it had set out to be: our daily bread. But make no mistake. Far from being uni-dimensional, the Indian bread is a multi-faceted, chameleonic entity: It can be sweet, savoury or plain; it may be fried, roasted, steamed or baked; it could be rested, unleavened, fermented. Sometimes, the distinction is subtle. For instance, what is called a <em><span class="italic">chapati</span></em> — bread from wholewheat dough that is rested, rolled and roasted on a<em> <span class="italic">tava</span></em> — becomes a<em><span class="italic"> phulka</span></em> when cooked briefly on fire, food historian K T Acharya wrote in his book<em> <span class="italic">A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food</span>.</em> In some cases, the difference lies more in name than in substance.<em> <span class="italic">Matar kachori</span></em>, a favourite in Uttar Pradesh, turns into<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>koraishutir kochur</em>i</span> in Bengal (both are <span class="italic">puris </span>stuffed with green peas). The<em> <span class="italic">jowar bhakri</span></em> of Maharashtra is Telangana’s <em><span class="italic">jonna rotte</span></em>. The much-loved <em><span class="italic">lachcha paratha</span></em>, griddle-fried and liberally endowed with <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em>, morphs into the Kerala (or Malabar) <em><span class="italic">parotta</span></em> — flaky, silky, feathered (the latter is made with <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em>, <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em> and, sometimes, an egg, whereas the<em> <span class="italic">lachcha paratha</span></em> can be made of wholewheat or <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em>). Meghalaya’s sweet rice cake <span class="italic"><em>putharo</em> </span>is akin to Kerala’s<em> <span class="italic">puttu</span></em>. The<em> <span class="italic">baati</span></em> of Rajasthan takes the form of Bihar’s<em><span class="italic"> litti</span></em>, albeit with some changes (both are made of wholewheat, baked over wood fire and doused in <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em>, but<em> <span class="italic">litti</span></em> has a filling of <span class="italic">sattu</span> and spices whereas <em><span class="italic">baati</span></em> is a ball of the dough).</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>All in the making</strong></p>.<p>Made with different lentils, <em><span class="italic">chilla</span></em> (also called <em><span class="italic">pooda</span></em>) is North India’s version of that southern staple, <em><span class="italic">dosa</span></em>. The flours can be different, the methods may vary, the colours and textures can be contrasting, and the fillings are all about the cook’s ingenuity. In most cases, flour is mixed with water and kneaded to form a dough. Sometimes, oil or <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em> is added for, depending on the amount used, either softness or crunchiness. Herbs and spices are the other add-ons. Taking the complexity a notch higher are breads that require leavening. Batter sometimes replaces dough. The staggering variety of rustic breads reflects India’s diversity and size. There is, however, a slight problem: we have far too many stereotypes associated with food. The wholesomeness of <em><span class="italic">Punjabiyat</span> </em>is mostly depicted with <em><span class="italic">parathas</span></em> heaped with mammoth amounts of white butter. Those South of the Vindhyas are represented with <em><span class="italic">idli</span> </em>or <em><span class="italic">dosa</span></em> (and banana leaf). Bengali cuisine is associated only with <em><span class="italic">maach-bhaat</span></em> even though there’s an abundance of<span class="italic"> luchi</span> and other breads too, and a Gujarati just has to be shown having a ‘snake’ (snack) of<em> <span class="italic">khakhra</span></em>. The truth is that though each region may have its own staples, none can be straitjacketed. Rice is the mainstay of Bengali food, all right, but certain dishes taste best with breads.<em> <span class="italic">Radhaballabhi</span>,</em> a deep-fried bread of <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em> with a stuffing of <em><span class="italic">dal</span></em>, is eaten with <em><span class="italic">aloor dum</span>. <span class="italic">Luchis</span></em> — thin, plumped-up <em><span class="italic">maida puris</span></em> — need <em><span class="italic">aloor dum</span></em> or <em><span class="italic">dalna</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">cholar dal</span></em> — to offset the crispiness. Moral of the story? Like wine, even bread has to be paired just so.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>The accompaniments</strong></p>.<p>Deep-fried <em><span class="italic">bhatura</span></em> is best with<em> <span class="italic">chhole</span></em>, steamed <em><span class="italic">puttu</span></em> enlivens the <em><span class="italic">kadala</span> curry, </em><span class="italic"><em>pav</em> </span>enhances the flavour of<em> <span class="italic">bhaji</span></em>, a <em><span class="italic">roomali roti</span></em> does magic with <em><span class="italic">seekh kebab</span></em>. <em><span class="italic">Appam</span></em> deserves the coconut milk-based stew. For <em><span class="italic">galouti kebabs</span></em>, an <em><span class="italic">ulta tawa paratha</span></em> does it. <em><span class="italic">Makki roti</span></em>, needless to say, mandates<em> <span class="italic">sarson ka saag</span></em>. And nothing like polishing off <em><span class="italic">nalli</span> <span class="italic">nihari</span> </em>with <em><span class="italic">khamiri roti</span></em> (best described as a <em><span class="italic">desi</span></em> version of pita, it is a soft, spongy leavened bread<em>; <span class="italic">khamiri roti</span></em> is to Mughlai cuisine what <em><span class="italic">litti</span> </em>is to <span class="italic">Bihari</span>). While <em><span class="italic">tandoori roti</span>, <span class="italic">roomali roti, kulcha</span> </em>and<em> <span class="italic">choor-choor paratha</span></em> are easily recognised — and readily available — there are some North Indian breads that are only found in either specialty restaurants or aristocratic kitchens run by exceedingly skilled <em><span class="italic">khansamas</span></em> (cooks).</p>.<p><em><span class="italic">Gilafi kulcha</span></em> (baked, with an envelope-like cover), <em><span class="italic">warqi paratha</span></em> (layered, like the <span class="italic"><em>lachcha</em> </span>but technically different), <em><span class="italic">taftan</span></em> (think <em><span class="italic">naan</span></em> flavoured with cardamom or saffron, with an increased flakiness; it is in the repertoire of <span class="italic">Awadhi</span> cuisine) are only a few. <span class="italic"><em>The Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledg</em>e</span> mentions <span class="italic"><em>doli ki roti</em></span><em>,</em> a fermented and deliciously-flavoured indigenous wheat bread from Punjab (‘<em><span class="italic">doli</span></em>’ was the earthen pot used for fermentation).</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Glamorised</strong></p>.<p>Thanks to Bollywood and its umpteen jokes about the Gujarati <em><span class="italic">nashto</span></em> of<em> <span class="italic">khakhra-fafda-thepla-dhokla</span></em>, almost everyone is familiar with the thin, soft<em> <span class="italic">theplas</span></em> made of wholewheat flour, <em><span class="italic">methi</span></em> (fenugreek) and <em><span class="italic">masalas</span></em>. Eaten with <em><span class="italic">chhundo</span></em>, it is fuss-free and can last for days. In reality, the <span class="italic">Gujarati</span> kitchen rustles up much more than just the<em> <span class="italic">thepla</span></em> or the<em> <span class="italic">papad</span></em>-like but healthy<em><span class="italic"> khakhra. Rotla</span></em> is a thick flatbread of<span class="italic"> <em>bajra</em></span> (millet). Where the people of Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh like it with jaggery, <em><span class="italic">Kathiawadis</span></em> have their<em> <span class="italic">rotla</span></em> with garlic<em> <span class="italic">chutney, kadhi</span></em> and a spicy curry like <em><span class="italic">sev-tameta</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">bataka nu shaak</span></em>. Then there’s also the<em> <span class="italic">dhebra</span></em> made with pearl millet (bajra) flour. Carts selling<em> <span class="italic">dal-pakwaan</span></em> are ubiquitous in Kutch which has a substantial <span class="italic">Sindhi</span> population. The biscuit-like <em><span class="italic">pakwaan</span></em> is eaten with<em> <span class="italic">chana dal</span></em>, and fried green chillies add another layer of imploding taste. Sindhis are also known for <em><span class="italic">koki</span></em>, a twice-roasted thick wholewheat <span class="italic">roti</span> flavoured with onions and spices.</p>.<p><em>Bhakris</em>, common in Maharashtra and parts of central India, are forgiving. They can be made with any grain (wheat, millet, sorghum, even rice), and vary in thickness, size and coarseness of the flour. <em><span class="italic">Thalipeeth</span></em> — crispy, pan-fried multigrain bread — is another Maharashtrian delight. The rapidly vanishing<em> <span class="italic">dashmi roti</span></em> (wherein jaggery is added to the<em> roti </em>dough) and<em> <span class="italic">gaakar</span></em> are also flatbreads of Maharashtra. The story of bread in Himachal is similiar to that of Bengal; the hill state too is partial to rice.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Indispensable</strong></p>.<p>In fact, the multi-course <em><span class="italic">Kangri Dham</span></em> comprises entirely of rice. Even so, breads are not completely dispensed with.<em> <span class="italic">Bhaturu</span></em> is prepared from fermented wheat dough, either roasted or fried. A variation is <em><span class="italic">bharwan bhaturu</span></em>, wherein the <em><span class="italic">bhaturu</span></em> is stuffed with <span class="italic"><em>dal</em> or</span> veggies. Another bread from the foothills of the <span class="italic">Dauladhars</span> is the <span class="italic">siddu</span>. Leavened and stuffed, it is either steamed or griddle-fried. In places with a sizeable population of Tibetan Buddhists — like Dharamsala, of course, and Manali — <span class="italic">tingmo</span> is extensively consumed. A steamed bread, it goes well with dishes like pork chilly. <span class="italic">Tsampa</span>, a nutty flour made from roasted barley, is another Tibetan import.</p>.<p>Every region makes abundant use of locally available grains and flavours. In the extreme north of the country, saffron often, but not always, flavours the breads.<em> <span class="italic">Chochwor</span></em>, the <span class="italic"><em>desi</em> </span>doughnut with a sprinkling of sesame or poppy seeds, is soft yet crispy, perfect with a cup of tea or<em> <span class="italic">nun chai</span></em> (salt tea). <em><span class="italic">Lavasa</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">lavaash</span></em> is pita’s paper-thin Kashmiri cousin, whereas<em> <span class="italic">katlams</span></em> are real crisp. A new day necessitates <span class="italic"><em>czo</em>t</span>, a heavily scored<em> <span class="italic">tandoor</span></em>-baked bread. <em><span class="italic">Bakarkhani</span></em> is another flatbread with a biscuit-like texture. In Telangana, indigenous millets like sorghum, and finger, pearl and foxtail millets are used more than rice. And the north-east relies on the red rice to make its breads.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Blender’s pride</strong></p>.<p>In southern India, flatbreads are actually more like crepes or pancakes.<em> <span class="italic">Dosa</span></em> and<em> <span class="italic">utthapam</span></em>, of course, are universal. But not easily found in regular South Indian restaurants across the country are breads like <em><span class="italic">adai</span></em> (a<em> <span class="italic">dosa</span> </em>made with a fermented batter of a mix of lentils),<em> <span class="italic">pesarattu</span></em> (from Andhra Pradesh, it is made with moong <em>dal</em> and rice, and eaten with <em><span class="italic">allam pachadi</span></em>, a spicy-tangy ginger pickle, or <em><span class="italic">allam chutney</span></em>), <em><span class="italic">appam</span></em> (pancakes made with a fermented batter of rice and coconut milk) or <span class="italic">Coorgi<em> akki roti</em></span> made of rice flour. There’s also<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>idiyappam</em> </span>or string hoppers, bowl-shaped <em><span class="italic">appams</span></em> (hoppers) with a spongy centre,<em> <span class="italic">pathiri</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">aripathil</span></em> from the Malabar (<em><span class="italic">neypathal</span></em> is deep-fried <span class="italic">pathiri</span> flavoured with coconut and fennel). <em><span class="italic">Puttu</span></em> is a steamed mixture of rice flour and coconut. Also steamed but with a different texture and taste is the<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>pesaha appam</em>,</span> an unleavened cake of rice, urad<em> dal </em>and coconut, made by the Syrian Christians of Kerala. It is eaten with <span class="italic">paal</span>, a cooked syrup of coconut milk and jaggery, on Maundy Thursday (Passover night). The Anglo-Indian breudher is flavoured like a cake but has a texture of bread and is from Kochi. Goans, who are credited with introducing the rest of the country to breads, were inspired by the Portuguese and, unable to find the foreign ingredients, came up with their own indigenous versions of the bread. Adopting and adapting went alongside. Since yeast was inaccessible, early recipes of <span class="italic">pav</span> or <span class="italic">pao </span>— spongy buns — used toddy as a fermenting agent.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Just name it...</strong></p>.<p><em><span class="italic">Kankonn</span></em> is ring-shaped, making it the Goan equivalent of a doughnut. The wholewheat <em><span class="italic">poee</span></em> and round <em><span class="italic">unddo</span></em> are the other favourites.<em> <span class="italic">Sannas</span></em>, steamed rice cake, is also from Goa. Not all Indian breads are bland or savoury. Among the sweet breads, the <em><span class="italic">puran poli</span></em> — widely made in Gujarat and Maharashtra — is both famous and popular. Made of wholewheat or refined flour, it has a filling of lentils, coconut, jaggery and fennel.</p>.<p>Similar dishes with different names —<em> boli, holige, bakshalu, bobbatlu</em> and<em> obbattu</em> are some — can be found in India’s southern states.</p>.<p>There are other sweet breads that are more esoteric.<em> <span class="italic">Pithe</span></em> — steamed or fried dumplings of rice flour with different fillings — is common in Odisha, Bengal and Assam (in the south, it is called <em><span class="italic">Kozhkatta</span></em>).</p>.<p>A common note running through most traditional sweet breads is the combined use of rice, coconut and jaggery. You can find it in the case of<em> patishapta</em>, a delicate Bengali sweetmeat of rice flour crepe, and in Meghalaya’s <em>putharo</em>. It is a pancake made from ground red sticky rice with – you know it – coconut and jaggery.<em> Tal angangaba</em>, a sweet, fried bread, is a specialty of the Meitei community in Manipur. Mangalore buns are made with <em>maida,</em> ripe bananas and yogurt; the mixture is left to rise and then deep-fried. There’s also<em> sheermal</em>, a mildly-sweet baked flatbread made with saffron-infused milk that is a key component of an Awadhi <em>dastarkhwan</em>. This, though, is mostly eaten with curries or, as with other breads, gulped down with tea. Where Indians go, their breads follow (and we aren’t alluding to travellers who cart along long-lasting<em> theplas</em> and <em>puris</em>). Trinidad knows of<em> dal-puri</em>. Malays love <em>roti canai</em>. In Fiji, <em>roti</em> wraps are popular. The journey was different in another era. There are suggestions that roti may have come from East Africa via the trade route, naan from Central Asia, flour from the Middle East. But that the<em> roti </em>had existed at least five centuries ago is a fact widely documented. Whether Tulsidas’ Ramcharitmanas, the Ain-I-Akbari (the third volume of Abu’l Fazl’s Akbarnama announcing that Mughal emperor Akbar loved it), or the Bhavaprakasa, considered an authoritative text on Ayurveda, there is enough literature to vouch for the roti’s existence in the 16th century. But what is a surprise is that it apparently existed even during the Harappan Civilisation.</p>.<p>If the antecedents of indigenous Indian breads are under a bit of shadow, so is the future. Urban, affluent India may know its ciabatta from its foccaccia, and words like brioche, bruschetta and stollen may no longer be foreign.<em> Pashti, sannas, khambir</em> are, however, a different matter (just so you know, pashti is a pan-fried bread of rice flour that’s first cooked in boiling water; sannas is steamed rice cake; khambir is a thick crusty Ladakhi bread of fermented wholewheat cooked on fire). Many traditional and rustic Indian breads are facing the possibility of extinction. “Only people belonging to a particular region or age group seem to know about these,” says Saee Koranne-Khandekar, culinary consultant and author of the seminal book <em>Crumbs! Bread Stories and Recipes for the Indian Kitchen</em>. She rattles off the names of some naturally fermented breads: The Pathare Prabhu pao (made using a preferment of potato peels and<em> chana dal</em>), <em>maande</em> from Belgaum (paper-thin, pastry-like mildly sweet bread), the Goan <em>poee</em> and its various <em>avatars</em> made using freshly tapped toddy, the Rajasthani <em>khoba roti </em>... the list is long and getting more so. “They are neither commercially available nor written about or promoted actively,” Koranne-Khandekar rues. It may be time for another Chapati Movement, this one of a different kind. Let’s claim our bread and eat it too, shall we?</p>
<p><em><span class="italic">Roti</span></em>-making is an art. Right from how you knead the dough to how long you rest it, and from how you roll it to how you roast it, making a perfect <span class="italic">roti</span> is a skill that comes with practise. So how did this art form become a political tool?</p>.<p>It happened in the mind: Some, that were paranoid, others, that were agreeable. An incremental relay was taking place across India in February 1857. In the cover of darkness, <em><span class="italic">chowkidars</span></em> were running to adjoining villages to hand over <span class="italic">chapatis</span> to their counterparts with the instruction that each recipient was to make more of them and pass them on to the next village. Within days, almost the entire country was in the grip of a <span class="italic">chapati</span> stir with no one quite sure what it signified. The Indians who received them interpreted it as some sort of a sign and the spooked British thought the natives were up to something seditious. This, “most mysterious affair,” as a British official described it, came to be dubbed the Chapati Movement.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Humble musings</strong></p>.<p>Mercifully, the humble <em><span class="italic">chapati</span></em> is back to being what it had set out to be: our daily bread. But make no mistake. Far from being uni-dimensional, the Indian bread is a multi-faceted, chameleonic entity: It can be sweet, savoury or plain; it may be fried, roasted, steamed or baked; it could be rested, unleavened, fermented. Sometimes, the distinction is subtle. For instance, what is called a <em><span class="italic">chapati</span></em> — bread from wholewheat dough that is rested, rolled and roasted on a<em> <span class="italic">tava</span></em> — becomes a<em><span class="italic"> phulka</span></em> when cooked briefly on fire, food historian K T Acharya wrote in his book<em> <span class="italic">A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food</span>.</em> In some cases, the difference lies more in name than in substance.<em> <span class="italic">Matar kachori</span></em>, a favourite in Uttar Pradesh, turns into<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>koraishutir kochur</em>i</span> in Bengal (both are <span class="italic">puris </span>stuffed with green peas). The<em> <span class="italic">jowar bhakri</span></em> of Maharashtra is Telangana’s <em><span class="italic">jonna rotte</span></em>. The much-loved <em><span class="italic">lachcha paratha</span></em>, griddle-fried and liberally endowed with <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em>, morphs into the Kerala (or Malabar) <em><span class="italic">parotta</span></em> — flaky, silky, feathered (the latter is made with <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em>, <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em> and, sometimes, an egg, whereas the<em> <span class="italic">lachcha paratha</span></em> can be made of wholewheat or <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em>). Meghalaya’s sweet rice cake <span class="italic"><em>putharo</em> </span>is akin to Kerala’s<em> <span class="italic">puttu</span></em>. The<em> <span class="italic">baati</span></em> of Rajasthan takes the form of Bihar’s<em><span class="italic"> litti</span></em>, albeit with some changes (both are made of wholewheat, baked over wood fire and doused in <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em>, but<em> <span class="italic">litti</span></em> has a filling of <span class="italic">sattu</span> and spices whereas <em><span class="italic">baati</span></em> is a ball of the dough).</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>All in the making</strong></p>.<p>Made with different lentils, <em><span class="italic">chilla</span></em> (also called <em><span class="italic">pooda</span></em>) is North India’s version of that southern staple, <em><span class="italic">dosa</span></em>. The flours can be different, the methods may vary, the colours and textures can be contrasting, and the fillings are all about the cook’s ingenuity. In most cases, flour is mixed with water and kneaded to form a dough. Sometimes, oil or <em><span class="italic">ghee</span></em> is added for, depending on the amount used, either softness or crunchiness. Herbs and spices are the other add-ons. Taking the complexity a notch higher are breads that require leavening. Batter sometimes replaces dough. The staggering variety of rustic breads reflects India’s diversity and size. There is, however, a slight problem: we have far too many stereotypes associated with food. The wholesomeness of <em><span class="italic">Punjabiyat</span> </em>is mostly depicted with <em><span class="italic">parathas</span></em> heaped with mammoth amounts of white butter. Those South of the Vindhyas are represented with <em><span class="italic">idli</span> </em>or <em><span class="italic">dosa</span></em> (and banana leaf). Bengali cuisine is associated only with <em><span class="italic">maach-bhaat</span></em> even though there’s an abundance of<span class="italic"> luchi</span> and other breads too, and a Gujarati just has to be shown having a ‘snake’ (snack) of<em> <span class="italic">khakhra</span></em>. The truth is that though each region may have its own staples, none can be straitjacketed. Rice is the mainstay of Bengali food, all right, but certain dishes taste best with breads.<em> <span class="italic">Radhaballabhi</span>,</em> a deep-fried bread of <em><span class="italic">maida</span></em> with a stuffing of <em><span class="italic">dal</span></em>, is eaten with <em><span class="italic">aloor dum</span>. <span class="italic">Luchis</span></em> — thin, plumped-up <em><span class="italic">maida puris</span></em> — need <em><span class="italic">aloor dum</span></em> or <em><span class="italic">dalna</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">cholar dal</span></em> — to offset the crispiness. Moral of the story? Like wine, even bread has to be paired just so.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>The accompaniments</strong></p>.<p>Deep-fried <em><span class="italic">bhatura</span></em> is best with<em> <span class="italic">chhole</span></em>, steamed <em><span class="italic">puttu</span></em> enlivens the <em><span class="italic">kadala</span> curry, </em><span class="italic"><em>pav</em> </span>enhances the flavour of<em> <span class="italic">bhaji</span></em>, a <em><span class="italic">roomali roti</span></em> does magic with <em><span class="italic">seekh kebab</span></em>. <em><span class="italic">Appam</span></em> deserves the coconut milk-based stew. For <em><span class="italic">galouti kebabs</span></em>, an <em><span class="italic">ulta tawa paratha</span></em> does it. <em><span class="italic">Makki roti</span></em>, needless to say, mandates<em> <span class="italic">sarson ka saag</span></em>. And nothing like polishing off <em><span class="italic">nalli</span> <span class="italic">nihari</span> </em>with <em><span class="italic">khamiri roti</span></em> (best described as a <em><span class="italic">desi</span></em> version of pita, it is a soft, spongy leavened bread<em>; <span class="italic">khamiri roti</span></em> is to Mughlai cuisine what <em><span class="italic">litti</span> </em>is to <span class="italic">Bihari</span>). While <em><span class="italic">tandoori roti</span>, <span class="italic">roomali roti, kulcha</span> </em>and<em> <span class="italic">choor-choor paratha</span></em> are easily recognised — and readily available — there are some North Indian breads that are only found in either specialty restaurants or aristocratic kitchens run by exceedingly skilled <em><span class="italic">khansamas</span></em> (cooks).</p>.<p><em><span class="italic">Gilafi kulcha</span></em> (baked, with an envelope-like cover), <em><span class="italic">warqi paratha</span></em> (layered, like the <span class="italic"><em>lachcha</em> </span>but technically different), <em><span class="italic">taftan</span></em> (think <em><span class="italic">naan</span></em> flavoured with cardamom or saffron, with an increased flakiness; it is in the repertoire of <span class="italic">Awadhi</span> cuisine) are only a few. <span class="italic"><em>The Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledg</em>e</span> mentions <span class="italic"><em>doli ki roti</em></span><em>,</em> a fermented and deliciously-flavoured indigenous wheat bread from Punjab (‘<em><span class="italic">doli</span></em>’ was the earthen pot used for fermentation).</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Glamorised</strong></p>.<p>Thanks to Bollywood and its umpteen jokes about the Gujarati <em><span class="italic">nashto</span></em> of<em> <span class="italic">khakhra-fafda-thepla-dhokla</span></em>, almost everyone is familiar with the thin, soft<em> <span class="italic">theplas</span></em> made of wholewheat flour, <em><span class="italic">methi</span></em> (fenugreek) and <em><span class="italic">masalas</span></em>. Eaten with <em><span class="italic">chhundo</span></em>, it is fuss-free and can last for days. In reality, the <span class="italic">Gujarati</span> kitchen rustles up much more than just the<em> <span class="italic">thepla</span></em> or the<em> <span class="italic">papad</span></em>-like but healthy<em><span class="italic"> khakhra. Rotla</span></em> is a thick flatbread of<span class="italic"> <em>bajra</em></span> (millet). Where the people of Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh like it with jaggery, <em><span class="italic">Kathiawadis</span></em> have their<em> <span class="italic">rotla</span></em> with garlic<em> <span class="italic">chutney, kadhi</span></em> and a spicy curry like <em><span class="italic">sev-tameta</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">bataka nu shaak</span></em>. Then there’s also the<em> <span class="italic">dhebra</span></em> made with pearl millet (bajra) flour. Carts selling<em> <span class="italic">dal-pakwaan</span></em> are ubiquitous in Kutch which has a substantial <span class="italic">Sindhi</span> population. The biscuit-like <em><span class="italic">pakwaan</span></em> is eaten with<em> <span class="italic">chana dal</span></em>, and fried green chillies add another layer of imploding taste. Sindhis are also known for <em><span class="italic">koki</span></em>, a twice-roasted thick wholewheat <span class="italic">roti</span> flavoured with onions and spices.</p>.<p><em>Bhakris</em>, common in Maharashtra and parts of central India, are forgiving. They can be made with any grain (wheat, millet, sorghum, even rice), and vary in thickness, size and coarseness of the flour. <em><span class="italic">Thalipeeth</span></em> — crispy, pan-fried multigrain bread — is another Maharashtrian delight. The rapidly vanishing<em> <span class="italic">dashmi roti</span></em> (wherein jaggery is added to the<em> roti </em>dough) and<em> <span class="italic">gaakar</span></em> are also flatbreads of Maharashtra. The story of bread in Himachal is similiar to that of Bengal; the hill state too is partial to rice.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Indispensable</strong></p>.<p>In fact, the multi-course <em><span class="italic">Kangri Dham</span></em> comprises entirely of rice. Even so, breads are not completely dispensed with.<em> <span class="italic">Bhaturu</span></em> is prepared from fermented wheat dough, either roasted or fried. A variation is <em><span class="italic">bharwan bhaturu</span></em>, wherein the <em><span class="italic">bhaturu</span></em> is stuffed with <span class="italic"><em>dal</em> or</span> veggies. Another bread from the foothills of the <span class="italic">Dauladhars</span> is the <span class="italic">siddu</span>. Leavened and stuffed, it is either steamed or griddle-fried. In places with a sizeable population of Tibetan Buddhists — like Dharamsala, of course, and Manali — <span class="italic">tingmo</span> is extensively consumed. A steamed bread, it goes well with dishes like pork chilly. <span class="italic">Tsampa</span>, a nutty flour made from roasted barley, is another Tibetan import.</p>.<p>Every region makes abundant use of locally available grains and flavours. In the extreme north of the country, saffron often, but not always, flavours the breads.<em> <span class="italic">Chochwor</span></em>, the <span class="italic"><em>desi</em> </span>doughnut with a sprinkling of sesame or poppy seeds, is soft yet crispy, perfect with a cup of tea or<em> <span class="italic">nun chai</span></em> (salt tea). <em><span class="italic">Lavasa</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">lavaash</span></em> is pita’s paper-thin Kashmiri cousin, whereas<em> <span class="italic">katlams</span></em> are real crisp. A new day necessitates <span class="italic"><em>czo</em>t</span>, a heavily scored<em> <span class="italic">tandoor</span></em>-baked bread. <em><span class="italic">Bakarkhani</span></em> is another flatbread with a biscuit-like texture. In Telangana, indigenous millets like sorghum, and finger, pearl and foxtail millets are used more than rice. And the north-east relies on the red rice to make its breads.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Blender’s pride</strong></p>.<p>In southern India, flatbreads are actually more like crepes or pancakes.<em> <span class="italic">Dosa</span></em> and<em> <span class="italic">utthapam</span></em>, of course, are universal. But not easily found in regular South Indian restaurants across the country are breads like <em><span class="italic">adai</span></em> (a<em> <span class="italic">dosa</span> </em>made with a fermented batter of a mix of lentils),<em> <span class="italic">pesarattu</span></em> (from Andhra Pradesh, it is made with moong <em>dal</em> and rice, and eaten with <em><span class="italic">allam pachadi</span></em>, a spicy-tangy ginger pickle, or <em><span class="italic">allam chutney</span></em>), <em><span class="italic">appam</span></em> (pancakes made with a fermented batter of rice and coconut milk) or <span class="italic">Coorgi<em> akki roti</em></span> made of rice flour. There’s also<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>idiyappam</em> </span>or string hoppers, bowl-shaped <em><span class="italic">appams</span></em> (hoppers) with a spongy centre,<em> <span class="italic">pathiri</span></em> or<em> <span class="italic">aripathil</span></em> from the Malabar (<em><span class="italic">neypathal</span></em> is deep-fried <span class="italic">pathiri</span> flavoured with coconut and fennel). <em><span class="italic">Puttu</span></em> is a steamed mixture of rice flour and coconut. Also steamed but with a different texture and taste is the<em> </em><span class="italic"><em>pesaha appam</em>,</span> an unleavened cake of rice, urad<em> dal </em>and coconut, made by the Syrian Christians of Kerala. It is eaten with <span class="italic">paal</span>, a cooked syrup of coconut milk and jaggery, on Maundy Thursday (Passover night). The Anglo-Indian breudher is flavoured like a cake but has a texture of bread and is from Kochi. Goans, who are credited with introducing the rest of the country to breads, were inspired by the Portuguese and, unable to find the foreign ingredients, came up with their own indigenous versions of the bread. Adopting and adapting went alongside. Since yeast was inaccessible, early recipes of <span class="italic">pav</span> or <span class="italic">pao </span>— spongy buns — used toddy as a fermenting agent.</p>.<p class="CrossHead"><strong>Just name it...</strong></p>.<p><em><span class="italic">Kankonn</span></em> is ring-shaped, making it the Goan equivalent of a doughnut. The wholewheat <em><span class="italic">poee</span></em> and round <em><span class="italic">unddo</span></em> are the other favourites.<em> <span class="italic">Sannas</span></em>, steamed rice cake, is also from Goa. Not all Indian breads are bland or savoury. Among the sweet breads, the <em><span class="italic">puran poli</span></em> — widely made in Gujarat and Maharashtra — is both famous and popular. Made of wholewheat or refined flour, it has a filling of lentils, coconut, jaggery and fennel.</p>.<p>Similar dishes with different names —<em> boli, holige, bakshalu, bobbatlu</em> and<em> obbattu</em> are some — can be found in India’s southern states.</p>.<p>There are other sweet breads that are more esoteric.<em> <span class="italic">Pithe</span></em> — steamed or fried dumplings of rice flour with different fillings — is common in Odisha, Bengal and Assam (in the south, it is called <em><span class="italic">Kozhkatta</span></em>).</p>.<p>A common note running through most traditional sweet breads is the combined use of rice, coconut and jaggery. You can find it in the case of<em> patishapta</em>, a delicate Bengali sweetmeat of rice flour crepe, and in Meghalaya’s <em>putharo</em>. It is a pancake made from ground red sticky rice with – you know it – coconut and jaggery.<em> Tal angangaba</em>, a sweet, fried bread, is a specialty of the Meitei community in Manipur. Mangalore buns are made with <em>maida,</em> ripe bananas and yogurt; the mixture is left to rise and then deep-fried. There’s also<em> sheermal</em>, a mildly-sweet baked flatbread made with saffron-infused milk that is a key component of an Awadhi <em>dastarkhwan</em>. This, though, is mostly eaten with curries or, as with other breads, gulped down with tea. Where Indians go, their breads follow (and we aren’t alluding to travellers who cart along long-lasting<em> theplas</em> and <em>puris</em>). Trinidad knows of<em> dal-puri</em>. Malays love <em>roti canai</em>. In Fiji, <em>roti</em> wraps are popular. The journey was different in another era. There are suggestions that roti may have come from East Africa via the trade route, naan from Central Asia, flour from the Middle East. But that the<em> roti </em>had existed at least five centuries ago is a fact widely documented. Whether Tulsidas’ Ramcharitmanas, the Ain-I-Akbari (the third volume of Abu’l Fazl’s Akbarnama announcing that Mughal emperor Akbar loved it), or the Bhavaprakasa, considered an authoritative text on Ayurveda, there is enough literature to vouch for the roti’s existence in the 16th century. But what is a surprise is that it apparently existed even during the Harappan Civilisation.</p>.<p>If the antecedents of indigenous Indian breads are under a bit of shadow, so is the future. Urban, affluent India may know its ciabatta from its foccaccia, and words like brioche, bruschetta and stollen may no longer be foreign.<em> Pashti, sannas, khambir</em> are, however, a different matter (just so you know, pashti is a pan-fried bread of rice flour that’s first cooked in boiling water; sannas is steamed rice cake; khambir is a thick crusty Ladakhi bread of fermented wholewheat cooked on fire). Many traditional and rustic Indian breads are facing the possibility of extinction. “Only people belonging to a particular region or age group seem to know about these,” says Saee Koranne-Khandekar, culinary consultant and author of the seminal book <em>Crumbs! Bread Stories and Recipes for the Indian Kitchen</em>. She rattles off the names of some naturally fermented breads: The Pathare Prabhu pao (made using a preferment of potato peels and<em> chana dal</em>), <em>maande</em> from Belgaum (paper-thin, pastry-like mildly sweet bread), the Goan <em>poee</em> and its various <em>avatars</em> made using freshly tapped toddy, the Rajasthani <em>khoba roti </em>... the list is long and getting more so. “They are neither commercially available nor written about or promoted actively,” Koranne-Khandekar rues. It may be time for another Chapati Movement, this one of a different kind. Let’s claim our bread and eat it too, shall we?</p>