Varanasi by the Ganga

The iconic riverfront ghats, gullies and the River Ganga in Varanasi have been a repository of culture and wisdom from ancient times, writes Kavita Kanan Chandra

Ghats on the Ganges River. Credit: Getty images

The ancient, continuously inhabited city of Varanasi, evokes a strong sense of its ghats, gullies and the holy river Ganga. The season of Spring with the festivals of Shivratri and Holi could be a good time to visit. Whether on a pilgrimage or a tourist trail, Varanasi is a memorable experience.

Varanasi is the UNESCO creative city of music. The ghats of Varanasi are in the tentative list of heritage sites (UNESCO World Heritage Site). The holy river Ganga, the lifeline of Varanasi has seen its glory and affront through the ages, all the while nurturing the lives and livelihoods of the people.

The series of invasions of foreign invaders from 1194 to 1777 had destroyed the city that was rebuilt many times. The Ganga has washed the sins of the people even though the people failed her by polluting it. The Namami Gange project strives to clean, conserve and rejuvenate the Ganga.

Situated between the Rivers Varuna and Assi, mythologically Varanasi lies on the Trishul (trident) of Lord Shiva. Known in Rigveda and Puranas as “Kashi” which means “cosmic light,” myth and reality are seamlessly woven into the history and culture of Varanasi.

The revered Kashi Vishwanath temple has one of the holiest jyotira lingas. The temple was destroyed several times before being reconstructed by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar in 1780. It has a gilded dome that dazzles with gold donated by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab. The recently revamped Kashi Vishwanath Dham corridor (400 metres long, 75 metres wide) linking the temple to the river has been hailed to ease pilgrims’ passage as well as traffic congestion in the city.

“The devotees could avoid the congested lanes from Godowlia market with an alternative for a boat ride from Assi Ghat or Raj Ghat, that would take 20 minutes (motorboat) or 40 minutes (wooden boat) from either side,” said Abhishek Sankrit, Secretary (UP Chapter), Association of Domestic Tour operators, India. He was happy that the ancient ritual of taking a dip in the Ganga before paying obeisance to the deity would be revived. The inconvenience of traffic jams, hassles of car parking and long queues would be done with, he added.

To experience its spirituality and serenity, the Brahma Muhurta (before sunrise and just after) is the best time to embrace its eternal calm and positivity. Visit the Assi Ghat where a programme Subah-e-Banaras enchants with the morning aarti, Vedic chants, classical music followed by yoga.

“The ghats of Banaras are not just a place for sightseeing but an anubhuti (accumulation of experiences) that comes naturally if you open your senses and assimilate the mysticism, the sights and sounds surrounding it,” said Sandeep Rao, a classical musician.

“You just need to observe as the ghats of Varanasi wake up to the rhythmic sound of temple bells, mosque’s azaan and the devotees performing rituals in the Ganga,” he added. There are wrestlers in akharas, holy men under the parasols and the ubiquitous tea sellers... At Assi Ghat, sip your kulhad chai at “Pappu tea stall,” where the “chai par charcha” (discussion over tea) could give you political insights.

During the evening, basking in the golden hue of the setting sun, take a boat ride towards Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening aarti, a spectacle to watch. In an orchestrated rhythm the rows of priests whirl the brass flaming lamps to the chants of mantras, the sound of cymbals and blowing of the conch shells.

In Varanasi, its ghats and gullies resound with music from bhajans, folk to classical. Through the centuries, it has been home to legends like Ustad Bismillah Khan, Pandit Ravi Shankar, Sitara Devi among others. The musical tradition continues albeit with some fusion and innovations also. “I have done an Indo-German project on the fusion of jazz and Indian classical music,” said Sandeep. His grandfather, Pandit Laxman Rao Nayak Kewale, and uncle had started the International Music Centre Ashram, situated in a heritage structure in a lane near Dashashwamedh Ghat. It has become a global hub for musical concerts and learning.

The gullies are also home to artists, weavers and artisans. The exquisite Banarasi sarees, handicrafts, wooden toys, bangles and artwork could be found there. It is also a foodie’s delight. You can’t resist the aroma of crispy fried jalebis, lentil stuffed kachoris, tangy chaats and umpteen shops to have tea, lassi, rabri and banarasi paan. Imagine a dedicated lane for kachoris called Kachori gully. With the city’s presiding deity being Lord Shiva, bhang (cannabis) is not considered an intoxicant, but a prasad (offering) of Lord Shiva, signifying the surrender of all the life’s intoxications to the divine.

During spring, when the weather is pleasant and the air is redolent with the fragrance of blooming flowers, the festivals of Shivratri and colourful Holi are celebrated in the month of March with much enthusiasm. The bhang-laced lassi and thandai do the rounds as folk songs rent the air.

Ghats of Varanasi

There are 84 ghats, built in different historical periods. The most sacred 5 ghats called Panchatirthis are Assi Ghat, Dashashvamedha Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Panchaganga Ghat and Adi Keshava Ghat (Raj Ghat). Dashashwamedh Ghat is where Lord Brahma performed the Ashwamedh yajna. Ganga Dussehra (June) and Dev Deepawali (15 days after Diwali) are celebrated here. Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are the cremation ghats of the Hindus.

Best season to visit: October-March

Boat rides along the Ganga: Small to large boats with a carrying capacity of 8 to 50 persons. A boat ride costs Rs 100-Rs 150/per person (large boat), the hiring cost of small boats varies. Morning sunrise boat rides, evening sunset boat rides to see Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat are a must. Time: 5-6 hours for a boat ride through all 84 ghats while 2-2.5 hours for 35 ghats.

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