Why India’s Olympic outfit misses the mark

The look does not communicate the spirit of the sporting event, say designers

The Indian contingent’s ikat-inspired uniforms created by fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani, have been labelled “uninspired” and “tacky” by netizens. People have taken issue with the digitised ikat prints. “Would it have hurt to use handwoven ikat?”, they ask. But that’s not all. The ill-fitting blouses and designs have also come under the scanner.

Many from the fashion fraternity, while appreciating Tahiliani for pulling off the designs in such a short time, felt the ensembles could have looked much better.

Some took issue with how the designer incorporated his brand’s logo into the ensembles. However, Lokesh Ahuja, who owns a bespoke menswear brand in Bengaluru, does not believe it calls for criticism. “I feel the costumes don’t look sporty enough though. The designs were too Indian for a global platform like the Olympics,” he says. 

‘Doesn’t show creativity’

Bengaluru-based fashion designer Sanjay Choraria feels netizens using words like “lacklustre” to describe the designs is harsh. Choraria believes “it is herd mentality that triggered the online furore”. 

He agrees that the costume “wasn’t a showcase of creativity at its best”. “Most designs can be made better in hindsight, and this wasn’t an exception,” he adds. However, there’s a lot that goes into the design process. Often a client has a very specific design in mind and couturiers do not have much of a say, he explains. 

Shiny Alexander, a women’s occasion wear designer, has been following the issue closely. She says the outfits “are a mockery of our weavers and artisans”. “No handloom was used and all the designs were printed. At a time when we are trying to protect local art and promote handlooms, these costumes were disappointing.” According to her, the “costumes fell flat and didn’t need a designer like Tarun Tahiliani to make them”. “The outfits didn’t have any finesse and looked like they were created for an Independence Day event,” she says. 

‘Had to follow ‘diktat’’

Fashion consultant Prasad Bidapa feels “the Indian audiences now expect high-level pageantry and extravagant looks” for the red carpet. “There is no appreciation for the Gandhian simplicity of a sari or kurta-pajama. I have heard from sources that the Indian Olympic Association had placed the order a couple of months before the event and insisted on these looks. Tahiliani had no choice but to follow the ‘diktat’,” he says. Originally, a more formal and structured look had been designed but it had to be changed, he adds.

Calling the online criticism unfair, Bidapa recalls his own experiences working with government departments “who often leave decisions to the last minute, leaving designers in a panic”. Tahiliani had around two months to design these costumes, which were heavily subsidised by Tasva (Tahiliani’s affordable brand), he adds. “It’s creditable that he managed to complete the project in time,” notes Bidapa. 

Alternate ideas

Choraria says that had he been in Tahiliani’s position he would have instead opted for khadi. Incidentally, he designed the vibrant costumes for Raghu Dixit’s performance at the Olympics. “We would not have used the Indian tricolours in such an in-your-face manner. We would have perhaps incorporated hand painting, hand embroidery, and other handcrafted techniques,” says Choraria. 

Though Bidapa feels the sari and kurta-pajama were the right choice, he believes he would have opted for brighter and bolder prints, such as kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh and hand block prints from Rajasthan. “But, both these crafts are time-consuming and would not have been possible to complete in two months,” he adds.

A more structured blazer, a pretty brooch, or a pair of classy ikat pants could have made a huge difference, says Shiny. “Instead of a kurta-pajama, a nice set of trousers in a handloom fabric would have looked classy. I would have included a bit of embroidery or zardozi on the ensembles to elevate the look,” she adds.