Wild weaves

The silken pride of Assam have over the years adapted to change but the weaves remain indigenous, writes Renuka Krishnaraja

At a recent event in Bengaluru, I had the privilege of delving into the exquisite world of Assam silk. I marvelled at the vivid array of fabrics there ­— from the most delicate, sleek ones embellished with aesthetic motifs to the rustic woolly ones that had a cosy texture, and everything in between. They all were finely hand-woven, naturally dyed organic silk sarees from award-winning weavers, I was told. Apart from sarees, there were creatively dyed scarves, soft shawls and stoles among others.

The collection elucidated as to how the fine art entwined in these magnificent creations could fascinate the masses and why Assam silk has dominated the fashion world. Preeta Dutta, a Bengaluru-based entrepreneur and a native of Assam, was the organiser of the event. The whole experience became even more compelling as she precisely helped us explore the various intricacies involved in the field — right from sericulture and on-farm activities to fabric creation. The process seemed to be rather labour-intensive.

There are three types of silks indigenous to Assam — the golden muga, white pat and the warm eri. While all the varieties were exhibited, eri formed a major part of the collection. Muga is a wild variety of silk geographically tagged to the state of Assam. Known for its royalty, fine texture and durability, muga is one of the rarest and most expensive silks in the world and has enormous export prospects. It is recognised by its golden yellow silk thread produced from muga silkworms found only in Assam which are fed on som leaves. Its lustre increases with every wash and it often outlives the owner. Earlier it was thought that muga could not be dyed, but it could be and is used to make the traditional Assamese lac and muga mekhela chador — a graceful two-piece garment which when worn resembles a saree. “Muga is the pride of Assam. Due to its uniqueness, there is an increased demand and shortage of silk yarns. So, it is quite expensive. It is also being adulterated with cheaper materials like tussar or polyester silk which degrades the quality,” Preeta expressed her concern.
Pat silk is also called mulberry silk as the larvae feed on mulberry leaves. It comes in natural white/off white colour and is known for its glossy feel. Its raw version is light and delicate and overall feels like chanderi. Interestingly, Assam has no cotton. Hence, there is the nuni or the summer silk which is also called Assam muslin.

The rawest form of silk is the eri which is absolutely phenomenal in terms of versatility. It is a non-toxic, eco-friendly fabric that has an isothermal character which keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. As it is soft and warm, it is popularly used to make shawls and quilts. Preeta said, “The larvae are fed on castor leaves and because the manufacturing process uses the cocoons after the silkworms come out, it is also called ahimsa silk. So, even the Buddhist monks make use of the eri.”

Natural organic dyeing

“Naturally dyed fabric will not be perfectly uniform which adds to its beauty,” Preeta stated pointing to the eri silk saree she had worn. Whether the bright yellow from turmeric dye, the dazzling black from iron ore, the wavering shades of indigo, the subtle hues of green, red or any other colour, the hues of the fabrics on display were impeccable. A wide spectrum of appealing colours can be achieved from natural elements which are used meticulously to make dyes. Flowers of marigold, hibiscus and jasmine are soaked in water and boiled. Berries are washed, crushed and boiled in vinegar or lemon juice. Turmeric and madder roots, henna and tea leaves, and pomegranate seeds are used. And peculiarly, cow dung is also used. These colours are used individually or in combination through which varying intensities can be attained. Lac is a traditional red dye used by the ancient Assamese and is still extensively used. It is a sticky paste left behind on trees by an insect as it moves around.

Art of weaving

Silk is intertwined in Assamese tradition and significantly contributes to their cultural heritage. Bodo women are engaged in commercial weaving and start at an early age. Mising women, too, are skilful weavers.

Although silk is cultivated and woven all around the state, Sualkuchi town happens to be an important centre of weaving. By generating employment, the silk industry has uplifted the rural economy.