All dolled up for festival season

A display inspired by the royal court

The 150-year-old patada gombe heirlooms

A doll display inspired by the Mysore royal court.

Come Dasara, families in the Mysuru-Bengaluru region venture into their attics to unwrap and dust off dolls —some a few decades old — to arrange them artfully to tell stories of daily life, myths and royalty. Participants of this centuries-old tradition, known as ‘golu’ or ‘gombe habba’ in Karnataka, say it is their way of reconnecting with family legacies through heirlooms passed down across generations. Others find it a way to advocate for a social cause or express their creativity. Some see it as a way to introduce their children to aspects of culture that have since faded into obscurity.

The intentions may vary, but the doll displays have become an integral part of early winter festivities in the Mysuru-Bengaluru region.

Rich tradition

How this iconic festival of dolls came to be, however, is still a mystery. There is some evidence that points to its origin during the Vijayanagar empire. A few experts say that the tradition, like many other festivities, evolved to facilitate the display and trade of wares. “Most jaathres or habbas have evolved not just as a way to celebrate but also to encourage economic activity,” says Arun Joladakudligi, a folk researcher.

For instance, the Mysuru region had a rich tradition of wood artisanry used in the making of the Channapatna dolls. Joladakudligi postulates that the dolls may have been displayed in marketplaces, as visitors from many kingdoms would come to visit. “How this tradition moved to the domestic sphere is still not known,” he says.

The celebration of Dasara in the royal darbars of the Vijayanagar empire might have also inspired golu, which typically features royal figurines either in court or in a procession. Vasudha Narayanan, a researcher, says, “The festival culminated in a grand celebration, with the king holding court. It is possible that this act of a royal court is what is re-created today in the domestic celebration.”

The royal inspirations behind golu arrangements can still be witnessed today, as most typically feature sacred idols on the top, followed by a royal court or procession. The remaining steps are populated by visual renditions of daily life, flora and fauna. Some houses sprout millets and grains at the bottom of the steps to portray plants or crops.

The displays also typically feature ‘pattadabombes’ a pair of dolls dressed as the bride and groom, given to women at the time of marriage to symbolise prosperity and fertility. Padma Udayakumar has three of these pairs in her collection, “I have the pair given to me during my wedding, the pair given to my mother and those given to my mother-in-law during her wedding,” she says. These dolls hold particular emotional significance for families.

The sentimental connection that families have with this festivity is undeniable. Many have dolls that have been passed down decade after decade. Padma, for example, has dolls that are over 150 years old. “My grandma passed down the figurines and I have very fond memories of helping set up the stairs and arranging the gombes as a child,” she says.

Such memories play an important role in carrying forward the tradition. Vinay Prashant, of Tamaala handicrafts, remembers the entire family being involved in setting up the steps, repairing the dolls and coming up with ideas.

“There was such a craze. I remember that a relative in my family had dolls that were 4 feet tall,” he says. Customers who approach him have dolls that are at least 80 years old, and every year, they add either a set or one doll to their collection.

“There are thousands of families in the Bengaluru-Mysuru belt who have over 4,000 dolls in their collection,” he adds.

By representing family, daily activity, the animal kingdom, plants and trees, the arrangement “is a microcosm of the world. It represents different relationships that people have in the world– and has space for everybody’s life experiences,” says Anupama Hoskere, of the Dhaatu Puppet Theatre.

Contemporary life

Over the years, the inclusion of scenes from daily life has allowed the adoption of contemporary culture. The classic Channapatna dolls, for example, now come in the form of characters from Doraemon, a Japanese manga series popular among children.

“Many households have purchased the Doraemon set to capture the interest of children in the tradition. When they are encountered with characters they are familiar with in the arrangement, children may have more motivation to participate and replicate the event in coming years,” says Sandhya Vasudhev of Aralikatte Handicrafts. Recently, many have been making and selling Puneet Rajkumar dolls as well.

The creative expression and the space that the golu tradition has acquired over the years means that it has become a potent tool to represent fading practices and cultures. For her display this year, Padma chose to portray ancient games that originated in India. “Since the games are no longer common, it is a way to re-introduce it to children who are unfamiliar with the concept. In a way, it allows us to carry on the legacy,” she says.