The many visual delights of Udupi
For years, Udupi has been the base for our trips to the temples of South Canara. Uncluttered and peaceful, this little town has always wrapped us in a comforting blanket of hot food after jostling temple crowds. Recently, on a longer stay, we discovered that Udupi has all the ingredients for a pleasant getaway.
We chose to take the Charmadi Ghat route from Bengaluru. Charmadi Ghat is a delight in any season, and more so now in monsoon, with the clouds within reach. Waterfalls tumble off dark mountains, flow through carpets of fresh greenery and stop just short of the road, their sound building up the anticipation in every motorist much before they are sighted.
The monsoon in the Western Ghats can be scary with landslides and accidents, but with some intelligent planning, this drive should be on everyone’s bucket list. We left Charmadi reluctantly after several stops to soak in the beauty.
Charmadi ghat.
Udupi is known largely for the Krishna temple constructed by Madhvacharya in the 13th century. A small idol of the deity is visible through a small window. Queues are lighter early in the morning or at four in the evening.
Another temple located opposite the Krishna temple is the Chandramouleshwara (Shiva) temple. Most non-locals miss it due to its small and nondescript entrance.
Perpendicular to the Krishna temple lies the Anantheswara temple, also devoted to Shiva and believed to be one of the oldest temples of the Tulu region. This triumvirate forms the daily circuit of many a local.
There is more on offer, right on this street. Around the Krishna temple are beautiful structures that house the Ashta (eight) mathas, each one embellished most tastefully with motifs and materials that reflect the Malnad region. Many have been inspired to replicate the intricate woodwork and pillars in their villas. For the adventurous, there is the drive from Udupi to Sringeri through the Agumbe Ghats. The fourteen hairpin bends on this Ghat evoke both fear and joy.
Maravanthe beach.
And when one yearns for the solidity of terra firma after the adrenaline rush of the ghats, there are the beaches of Udupi. While Malpe, Kaup and Maravanthe beaches are well known, Mattu Beach is relatively undiscovered.
The good thing about Dakshina Kannada is that there is always more than one road to get to your destination and losing one’s way countless times, over two and a half decades, has thrown up some very attractive alternate routes.
We return to Bengaluru by one such route via the Kudremukh National Park and Chikkamagaluru. There is a 35 km-drive on wonderful roads through the Kudremukh National Park.
Pristine forests with only the occasional vehicle for company, myriad shades of green, rare flowers and any number of ferns make it seem like it is from another world. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012, the Kudremukh National Park also offers moderate to difficult treks and bird-watching safaris. We spot a huge gaur, expertly camouflaged against the bark of a tree, in magnificent repose, with its sharp horns forming a perfect arc above its forehead.
From scenic drives through lofty mountains to expansive beaches, spiritual interludes and gastronomic capers, Udupi has it all.