On a royal food trail in Bhopal

Bhopal’s cuisine is a tantalising blend of tradition, innovation, and flavour, writes Ketki Gadre

Bhopal, the capital city of Madhya Pradesh, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, architectural marvels, and delectable cuisine. Among its many treasures are the culinary traditions passed down through generations, especially from the kitchens of the Begums, the royal women who once ruled the state.

“The day starts and ends with copious amounts of namak wali chai with a few cups in between,” says Ajay Chauhan, our guide taking us on a heritage walk of Bhopal. We go aghast with the word ‘namak’ when he explains that a continuously boiling pot of black tea rests on the stove and milk is added only while serving, giving it a very slight salty taste, which is why it is called namak wali chai. Served with khajur (Bhopali mathri or flaky biscuit), the localites take offence if you say no to this combination.

As we savour the chai at the famous Raju Tea Stall overlooking the old city, I ask Ajay the same question I had asked many people I met about the signature street food of Bhopal. I was hoping for a different answer but he said, “There is none!” The cuisine of Bhopal was birthed in the royal kitchens decades ago and evolved with each Begum bringing in a speciality from where she belonged. Bhopali cuisine is a mix of Lucknowi and Hyderabadi food which is not very mild and not very spicy. The food is rich in aroma, vibrant in colour, and bursting with flavours. While the names of dishes reflect influences from across India, the taste is uniquely distinguished.

The Nawab Begums of Bhopal who ruled between 1819 and 1926, each succeeded by her daughter, were dynamic and charismatic women. They not only upheld but also reshaped Bhopali tradition, blending elements of Muslim and Maratha heritage. From the resilient and courageous Qudsiya Begum to the militant Sikander Begum, followed by the artistic Shah Jehan Begum and, finally, the educationalist Sultan Jehan Begum, each woman’s distinct character, aspirations, beliefs, and actions left an indelible mark on Bhopali culture.

Their narratives and contributions to the culinary realm became the focal point of the dishes served.

Jeevan Singh Rawat, executive chef at Under the Mango Tree proudly says that he and some of the other chefs have been exclusively trained by the royal family, giving their cuisine a distinctive edge. I had the opportunity to sample some of the exquisite dishes served at the General’s Table, a private dining experience. Prepared with authentic home flavours and creatively paired, these dishes offered a culinary journey inspired by Bhopal’s royal ancestors, resulting in an epicurean feast.

As I sink my teeth into the tenderest Nadru ke Kofte (lotus stem cutlet in yoghurt-based curry), I sense their origin right here. Following closely are the Kees ki tikki (corn cutlet), an explosion of flavours, and the unexpected delight of karela kachumbar (bitter gourd salad). Who could have imagined that a humble bitter gourd, fried with spices and served with raw onions, could taste so divine? While indulging in various other starters and mains, the unassuming Rampuri chawal (rice and urad dal, spiced with dried yellow chillies and slivers of ginger) and Dhuaar dal lauki (split pigeon peas and chickpea lentils cooked with bottle gourd) completely astonished me. Though they may not boast a regal title, their taste is nothing short of extraordinary, leaving me feeling truly royal.

While the royal kitchens may have been the birthplace of Bhopali cuisine, its flavours have now found their way to the bustling bazaars of the city. Visitors can immerse themselves in the culinary wonders of Bhopal within its bustling markets, indulging in a steaming bowl of Bhopali Nalli Nihari (flour-based stew with slow-cooked mutton cooked in spices) or savouring the richness of Shahi Tukda (fried bread soaked in a decadent custard, and garnished with nuts and spices). Among these delights is a speciality known as Sukhad, where thinly sliced mutton meat is dried on wooden sticks before being cooked with gentle spices.

Historically, in the absence of freezing technology, meat was sun-dried on strings to prolong its shelf life, hence earning it the name Sukhad.

As I slowly walk by the Chatori Gali, a quaint street nestled in the heart of Bhopal’s old city, I’m greeted by the tantalising aroma and crackling sound of grilled meat, accompanied by the melodic call of a vendor advertising mohabbat ka juice, ganne ka juice (watermelon juice and sugarcane juice) on a loudspeaker. Unlike bustling food streets in other cities, Chatori Gali boasts only a handful of time-honoured establishments dishing out these nawabi delicacies.

Sampling some of the crispy, succulent kebabs, tikka, and shorba, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian varieties, I’m struck by the unique culinary offerings of Bhopal. In the countryside of Bhopal, spring is not over yet, as the farmers are still collecting the mahua flowers. While traditionally, mahua flowers are used to make country liquor after fermenting them, the tribals also make halwa, barfi and kheer from them.