Speakeasy is the spoken word

For those who crave fresh flavours and an element of spectacle, speakeasies cover a range of details, from décor to music to themed barware playing a role in creating a cohesive experience, writes Aslam Gafoor.

At an annual awards ceremony in Madrid a few days ago, Handshake, a two-level speakeasy tucked away in Mexico City’s hip Colonia Juárez neighbourhood, was named the best bar in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2024 list.

This wasn’t the first time such a bar won; in 2022, Paradiso, concealed within a pastrami shop, topped the list. A century after Prohibition in the US gave birth to the original “speakeasy,” these clandestine bars have seen a global resurgence, capturing the imagination of modern patrons with promises of mystery, exclusivity, and a refined cocktail experience. In India, the concept has thrived among a discerning, well-travelled clientele, with bars like ZLB23, PCO, 1240, and Hoots’ embracing the essence of the speakeasy while adapting it to local tastes.

Traditionally, a speakeasy was a concealed venue where alcohol was served illegally in the 1920s US. They were often accessed through unmarked doors, basements, or hidden passages, and the term itself, “speakeasy,” referenced the quiet, discreet behaviour needed to evade law enforcement.

Today’s speakeasies operate legally but they retain these elements of secrecy and intrigue. At ZLB23 in Bengaluru, patrons pass through a guarded entrance, navigate through a kitchen, and ascend an elevator marked with an enigmatic “Z” to find themselves in an intimate setting with maroon shadows, vintage furniture, and dim lighting. “The adventure begins even before you get to the bar, adding another layer to the mystery,” says Madhav Sehgal, area vice president at The Leela Palace Hotels and Resorts.

In Delhi, PCO remains committed to the classic speakeasy ethos. For over 12 years, the “Pass Code Only” entry — where a weekly-changing secret code leads patrons to a menu showcasing in-house infusions — has created an atmosphere of exclusivity. “While traditional speakeasies evoke hidden, underground spaces, today’s scene needs a blend of secrecy and allure,” explains Rakshay Dhariwal, managing director of Pass Code Hospitality.

“It’s about the artistry behind each drink rather than flashy, Instagram-ready aesthetics. The true draw for patrons is the quality of a well-crafted cocktail, which brings them back for new experiences like our latest menu, ‘The Forbidden.’”

Hoots’, concealed within the Perch Wine Bar, maintains a similar sense of initiation. “We began Hoots’ as a tightly kept secret known only to a select hundred,” says Parveen Kumar, brand head, Perch Wine & Coffee Bar. “The design mimics a house den with textured walls, dark tones, and a record player. Though we’ve since opened to a broader audience, the sense of discovery remains at the heart of the experience.”

The journey of discovery is equally essential at 1240 in Goa. “I designed Bar 1240 to make guests feel like protagonists in their own stories,” says Anant Kataria, director at 1240, who incorporated a hidden entrance behind a library door in a bustling café. “I wanted it to be an immersive journey where patrons uncover secrets in a sophisticated atmosphere — a blend of mystery, sophistication, and exclusivity.”

This appeal to storytelling and atmosphere is echoed by Vikram Achanta, co-founder of 30BestBarsIndia, who explains, “Modern consumers demand more than just sophisticated venues; they crave fresh flavours and an element of spectacle. Every detail, from décor to music to themed barware, plays a role in creating a cohesive experience. Drawing inspiration from renowned global speakeasies — not only in New York and Europe but also their Asian adaptations in Tokyo, Singapore, and Hong Kong — Indian speakeasies are evolving to cater to the refined tastes of the well-travelled urban clientele.”

The paradox of a modern speakeasy lies in maintaining exclusivity while ensuring commercial viability. “Speakeasies naturally draw in a like-minded clientele,” notes Rakshay. “Their word-of-mouth endorsements not only sustain the bar’s exclusive appeal but also attract the right patrons.” In major cities, the appetite for premium, exclusive experiences has made speakeasies a coveted alternative to conventional nightlife. Rakshay adds, “There’s a distinct sense of exclusivity and personalisation that characterises contemporary speakeasies in India — something we’ve embraced with the introduction of our Omakase-style cocktail experience at The Director’s Room, a hidden bar within a bar at PCO.”

Although many speakeasies start with an intention to remain discreet and intimate, some inevitably shift toward more open, commercialised models. ZLB23, however, has successfully balanced exclusivity with profitability by curating unique experiences. “Our cocktails, music, and food create unique experiences,” says Madhav. The award-winning bar has hosted over 40 international takeovers and launched two seasons of Magnetic Music, fostering a global industry community. “A well-planned bar is always profitable,” he adds, stating how understanding the guests and ensuring efficient service brings repeat customers is essential for success.

“We envisioned Harp as a distinctive experience,” shares Shubham Agarwal, founder of Harp by Maruchi in Delhi. “Launched in July 2023, it was designed as an intimate, non-judgemental drinking space with a cocktail menu inspired by the musical notes of do re mi fa so la ti do, each one crafting a touch stronger than the previous.”

Currently closed, Harp is set to return with a broader musical repertoire and an elevated mixology programme under Shubham’s direction.

Maintaining the mystique requires thoughtful marketing strategies. “We avoid aggressive advertising, instead relying on subtle word-of-mouth and select partnerships,” notes Anant.

“By nurturing the allure, we ensure Bar 1240 remains a coveted destination.” Hoots’ operates similarly, with limited marketing and a booking-only policy. “Every interaction counts, from the bartender’s engagement to the cocktail presentation,” says Kumar. “Our storytelling and themed cocktails, inspired by literary characters — Robert’s Daisy, William’s Punch, Tommy’s Margarita — add to the layered experience.”

The success of India’s speakeasies lies in balancing exclusivity with financial viability.

The label “speakeasy” is often misunderstood or diluted, yet venues like ZLB23 maintain their charm by focusing on experiences that resonate with patrons, turning them into ambassadors. “Our strongest marketing asset is word-of-mouth,” says Madhav. “It’s about creating memories that invite patrons to spread the word.”

Ultimately, the rise of speakeasies is reshaping India’s bar scene. By weaving mystery with luxury, they offer an elevated form of socialising. For Rakshay, “A speakeasy is more than just a bar. It’s about community, craft, and the stories we share over a well-made cocktail, keeping the magic alive.”

(Aslam Gafoor is a Bengaluru-based hospitality professional, food lover and travel enthusiast.)