A sudden turn of events led us to leave Bengaluru for Hyderabad. We traded the pleasant 30-degree evenings with light drizzles for the intense 40+ degree heat radiating off the boulders of the twin capitals of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Naturally, we sought refuge in the air-conditioned comfort of our hotel, but it wasn’t long before the confinement made us restless. Soon, we were eager to explore the city, despite the scorching sun.
By the third day of our self-imposed seclusion, the weather took a favourable turn. A light drizzle and a sun hidden behind dense clouds urged us to step out, guided by the ever-reliable Google Maps.
Our plan was straightforward: visit the Qutb Shahi tombs within an hour, then head to Golconda Fort. We grossly underestimated the task — how long could it take to explore seven tombs? We were entirely mistaken. The term “seven tombs” is misleading; the complex sprawls over 100 acres. The Aga Khan Foundation has been meticulously restoring the site, breathing new life into the ancient mausoleums. This vast complex stands as a monument to the syncretic culture of the Qutb Shahi rulers, the founders of Hyderabad.
Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth sultan, established Hyderabad after Golconda became uninhabitable. He enlisted renowned architects to realise his vision, resulting in landmarks like Charminar, Mecca Masjid, and the beautiful gardens and necropolis that amazed medieval travellers and continue to captivate modern tourists. Ibrahim Bagh, the royal burial ground, is a unique Indo-Muslim dynastic necropolis. It houses the tombs of five of the dynasty’s seven rulers, as well as four other identified members of the royal family, all in one location — a rarity among royal necropolises. The site includes 30 tombs, 20 mosques, four step wells, and six ghusl-khanas (mortuary baths). The tombs showcase the stylistic evolution of Qutb Shahi architecture, where grandeur or simplicity reflects the dynastic politics within the family.
The modest tomb of Quli Qutb Shah, the dynasty’s founder, carries forward the architectural legacy of the Bahmanis. These tombs stand on a raised quadrangular platform with grand arches, topped by a lofty flat terrace with a minaret at each corner. The dome rises 30 to 40 feet from this terrace. The unusual two-storey tomb of Jamsheed Khan, set on an octagonal base, and the grandest tomb of all, Muhammad Quli’s, with its Iranian-inspired post and beam porticoes, mark the transition phase culminating in the tomb of the last ruler, Abdullah. Qutb Shahi architecture is influenced by Persian, Hindu, and Pathan traditions, characterised by miniature decorative galleries encircling the minars, a profusion of stucco decorations, and the exquisite use of glazed tiles.
These tombs also hide tales of intrigue and betrayal. Near Quli’s tomb are two tombs identified as those of Sultans Jamsheed and Subhan. Jamsheed murdered his father, and neither tomb bears epitaphs confirming their identities, suggesting that successors wished to erase this dark chapter of patricide.
The spatial relationships between the various tombs reflect the royal hierarchy. Hayat Baksh Begum’s tomb, adjacent to her husband Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah’s, exhibits similar style and grandeur, indicating her significant influence behind the throne.
The burial complex also honours the trusted and loyal. Royal physicians to Sultan Abdullah Shah and the courtesans Taramati and Premamati have twin tombs, beautifully embellished with stucco work, securing their place in the royal necropolis.
A distant arched corridor opposite Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah’s tomb offered us shelter from the blazing sun. We passed by newly renovated enclosures and a small but ornate mosque, entering an area known as the ghusl-khana. Here, deceased royals were bathed, prayers were offered for their souls, and they were taken to their final resting place — the tombs they had built for themselves.
Reluctantly leaving the shaded arcade of the royal hamam, we approached the exit and noticed a bare structure, devoid of a roof, with exposed stone masonry and no embellishments. This was the unfinished tomb of Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last ruler, captured by Aurangzeb. His death in Daulatabad marked the end of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, casting a final shadow over the royal burial site.
The prayers here often begin with salutations penned by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the one who built the necropolis. He was the first royal to write in Urdu, the language of the people. His poetry serves as a reminder to Hyderabadis of their rich cultural heritage, a legacy of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, and offers insights to non-Hyderabadis into the virtues of tolerance and syncretism, values that transcend all faiths.
Golconda Fort, another prominent site in Hyderabad, stands as a testament to the grandeur and resilience of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. Built on a granite hill, the fort’s complex system of fortifications, including massive gates studded with iron spikes, protected the rulers from invaders. The fort’s acoustics, where a clap at the entrance can be heard at the highest point of the fort, is a marvel of engineering. Within its walls, the fort housed palaces, mosques, and a treasury that once held the legendary Koh-i-Noor diamond. Today, Golconda Fort continues to draw visitors with its impressive architecture, historical significance, and enchanting sound and light show that brings its storied past to life.