Trove of tribal treasures

Known for its picturesque setting and a vibrant cultural heritage, Jawhar surprises Manu Shrivastava with its legend and charm

Finding the perfect weekend getaway is like finding your soul-mate. While it can happen by chance… destiny plays a huge role. That is how on my way to Palghar, a detour led me to the quaint hill-station called Jawhar, and I couldn’t be more delighted.

Nestled in the lap of Sahyadri mountains of the Western Ghat range, Jawhar has an air of exclusivity to it. Lcated at 140 km from Mumbai, Jawhar is not your run-of-the-mill hill station. The journey through the canopy of trees skirting the long, winding roads around majestic mountains, was only a preview of the tranquility that awaited me. After the inclines ended, I found myself on the edge of a flat-as-a-foot terrain, the tableland, where Jawhar stood in all its glory, at 450 metre above sea level.

Raja Yashwantrao Mukne's bust greets visitors as it stands in the middle of the city.

Tribal kingdom

The place has a regal calm to it. Koli king Jayabha Mukne (Jaideoraoji Mukne) had founded Jawhar state and the Mukne dynasty in 1306. The last ruler, Shrimant Yashwantrao Martandrao Mukne, acceded the throne at a tender age. The Koli princely state became part of Bombay Presidency during the British rule and, after Independence, merged with India. Yashwantrao was a visionary who worked towards the education and development of his people, even post-independence by joining politics. Upon entering the city, the first thing I noticed was a bust of this ‘people’s king’ welcoming all visitors.

Unbeknown to many, Jawhar is one of the very few tribal kingdoms in Maharashtra. Home to several indigenous tribes —Warli, Kolcha, Kukana, Thakur, Mahadev, Koli and Katkaris. Most tribals are employed in the tourism industry. However, if you look around carefully, you may find a few locals selling Jawhar’s famous Warli paintings. The ‘places to see’ are scattered all around Jawhar, and not within, which is why it is better to drive your own vehicle , and if not, you must know to bargain well with the rarely-spotted local autorickshaw drivers. There are very limited options of public transport here.

I started by visiting the main attraction — Jai Vilas Palace, also known as Raj Bari — built in 1940 by Yashwantrao Mukne as the royal residence. The exquisite architecture set in syenite stone stands on the edge of the plateau and is visible from beyond the hills. The interiors reflect the lives of tribal kings — portraits of the Mukne clan, antique furniture, a nursery for children, royal bedroom, grand rooms, animal trophies and a garden with cashew trees.

I learnt that several Marathi and Hindi films like Akshay Kumar’s Khiladi, Great Grand Masti and Mast Malang were shot in this palace. The palace lies abandoned, reminiscent of the royal past. At a two-minute walk from the palace is the Hanuman Point, a natural vantage spot overlooking the pristine valley. I found many tourists gawking at the panorama grabbing the ceremonial selfies. A furtive look down the deep valley gave me jitters as I swiftly moved away from the edge of the cliff that lies unfettered. As legend says, Hanuman is said to have taken a break here while on his way to meet Lord Ram’s brother, Bharath.

Jai Vilas Palace is an architectural masterpiece.

Scenic beauty

My next destination was Sunset Point, two kilometres from the palace, providing, as its name suggests, a breathtaking view of sunsets in the Sahyadri Hills. The golden rays make fascinating silhouettes out of every object, living or inanimate, in their path. After a three km ride down the highway, I reached Jai Sagar Dam built in 1956. The Mukne royals paid for its construction, despite being stripped of the royal privileges post independence. A quiet water reservoir is the perfect picnic spot for families. The area has a string of unexplored waterfalls. I chose to visit Dabdaba Falls. During monsoons, the beauty of the region surmounts with small springs spouting into exuberant waterfalls from lush-green forested mountains. For my next stop, I had to go all the way up to Jawhar, then five km on the other side of the valley to reach Shirpamal — a ‘guarding’ point on top of a hill to keep an eye on enemy forces. Shivaji had camped here with his men on his way to plunder Surat. It also provides a panoramic view of Jawhar.

The city of Jawhar doesn’t have many facilities for tourists, except for a few stalls selling water, cold drinks and snacks. If lucky, you may spot a local by a tree selling tadi, a natural beverage derived from the sap of palm trees. However, all along the highway are several resorts and restaurants for accommodation and food. Jawhar has managed to dodge the ‘development’ scourge and maintain its rustic charm till date. Its isolated presence on a tall plateau is symbolic of the immense pride and untouched legacy of its people and is sure to lure the traveller in you over and over again!