M V Sundararaman
Lying on the far south-eastern coast of Sri Lanka is the Yala National Park — a breathtaking mix of lush forests, arid scrubland, dunes and vast lakes. Just a few hours’ drive from Colombo airport, the National Park is a dream destination for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. Our journey from Colombo to the Yala Reserve along the Island’s scenic coast — a drive that reminded us of the famed Pacific Coastal Highway in California — will remain one of the many highlights of our visit to Sri Lanka.
The Ruhuna National Park, best known as Yala, dates back to 1938 when it was declared a National Park. In the chronology of such parks in modern times, Yala claims the third position behind Yellowstone in the USA and Baniff in Canada. Yala is an exotic nature conservatory with a 22-mile-long beach-front decorated with dunes, dramatic rocky outcrops and scrub jungle. The assortment of habitats inside Yala is home to a wide variety of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and aquatic fauna. The stars of the jungle are of course the Sri Lankan leopards, elephants and the sloth bears. The arid forests — a heavy blend of shrubs, high trees, grass patches and granite boulders — almost seem like an architect-designed patch for leopards.
The National Park also has a rich archaeological heritage dating back to the 1st century BC stemming from the Ruhuna Kingdom. The large lakes found inside the park are said to be remnants of an ancient civilisation that flourished here at nature’s lap. The monastic settlement of Sithulpawwa is said to have housed 12,000 inhabitants here seeking solace, nearly 2000 years ago. What is today preserved and nurtured as a pristine wildlife kingdom was home to a thriving civilisation, dating back to the glorious days of Sri Lankan kings. Hundreds of tanks, most in a dilapidated state today, are now lifelines of the flourishing animal kingdom of Yala.
The accommodation at Yala is an experience in itself. Nestled discreetly within the forest, are several nature-friendly resorts offering a hearty blend of comfort and wilderness. Each morning, we woke to lapwing, peacock calls, and the distant roar of the ocean. Wild boars, monitor lizards and star tortoises frequently visited us at our doorstep almost every morning of our stay there. Our days began with safari drives at daybreak, the best time to witness the Park’s abundant wildlife. The thrill of setting out in an open jeep with loaded breakfast baskets in the cool of early mornings and the promise of adventure ahead is indescribable. The Park, teeming with life, presented a stunning array of nature at every turn. The weather in July was dry yet cool and windy, making it most encouraging for us to venture into the jungle. The trees were shedding their leaves making it easier to spot even small animals and rodents like mongooses and rabbits. One of the first sights that greeted us was the Park’s vibrant birdlife. With over 200 species of birds, both endemic and nonendemic to the island, Yala is a haven for birders. We spotted colourful bee-eaters, majestic grey-headed fish eagles, paradise flycatchers and flamboyant painted storks in abundance.
As we ventured deeper into the park, we encountered vast herds of wild elephants moving about quietly in the thickets and large males wallowing in the lakes. The Park is also home to wild boars, sloth bears, water buffaloes and the most elusive Sri Lankan leopard. Yala boasts of one of the highest leopard densities in the world, but spotting these stealthy predators in its variegated landscape requires immense patience and vast luck. With the keen eyes of our guide, we were fortunate to see a leopard lounging very high up on a tree branch, its spotted coat blending seamlessly with the dappled sunlight. Yala’s leopards are a focus of conservation efforts in this nature reserve. These efforts aim to protect this unique population from threats of habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict. The Park authorities, and various conservation organisations, work tirelessly to ensure that these majestic felines continue to thrive.
Yala’s allure is not just in its wildlife but also in its resilience. The Park was severely impacted by the tsunami in 2004, a catastrophe that left a deep scar on the land and its inhabitants. Yet, nature has an incredible ability to heal. Today, Yala stands as a testament to this resilience, a vibrant ecosystem that has rebounded with life. The Tsunami Memorial in the nearby Peraliya village, a poignant reminder of the tragedy and the enduring spirit of recovery, reminded us of the devastation it caused and the lives it claimed in Sri Lanka.
A visit to Yala National Park is a journey into the heart of the wild, a chance to witness the beauty and diversity of nature in its purest form. It is a place where the spirit of adventure and the enigma of the wilderness come together perfectly and most unobtrusively. Yala is a hidden chapter in the Island’s natural history that speaks of its very soul. For anyone travelling to Sri Lanka, Yala is an experience not to be missed.