Aromatic alchemy of avarae kaalu

An eagerly awaited annual tradition for Bengalureans is the Avarae Kaalu Habba, where the streets awaken with the enticing aroma of avarae kaalu (field beans). Amid the celebration of this local cuisine, one may stumble upon discarded peels or skins of bean seeds scattered in front of homes. This unique practice, starting in December, prompted Ganesan Rengaian, a plant taxonomist at ATREE, to embark on a quest to unravel the age-old belief that trampling on these bean skins could elevate the taste and aroma of the curry. Yet, the scientific underpinnings of this practice remained shrouded in mystery until Ganesan serendipitously encountered a scientist from ICRISAT, Hyderabad.

The scientist unveiled a revelation: the bean seed coat harbours cyanoglycosides and other toxins. This revelation illuminated the traditional cooking practices designed to detoxify the beans, including overnight soaking, boiling, and disposing of the water. Such practices, deeply embedded in culinary traditions,
serve as safeguards against health issues like indigestion or flatulence.

The disposal of bean skins soaked in water takes on new significance when seen through the lens of detoxification. The belief in a tastier and aromatic curry appears linked to ensuring safe and healthy consumption.  

Recently, a local vendor introduced Ganesan to the Parimazhla variety of field beans, underscoring its aromatic qualities. This discovery reaffirms that indigenous bean varieties possess unique aromas that contribute to a sensory-rich, nutritious dish.  

In essence, the age-old practice of disposing of bean skins with the expectation of a tastier curry finds its roots in the essential need to detoxify the beans before consumption. This cultural practice aligns with various other methods of detoxifying food through traditional cooking practices around the world. Indigenous communities, like the Soligas in Karnataka, mark the onset of spring by harvesting Dioscorea, commonly known as yams. The preparation of yams involves a meticulous process to eliminate toxic elements before the celebratory feast. Similarly, in regions like Mexico and Central America, where tapioca is indigenous, the preparation of this tuber is thorough, involving boiling and expelling water to ensure the removal of toxins. These practices exemplify the
careful and deliberate steps taken by communities to make their traditional foods safe for consumption.

In the natural world, our animal counterparts exhibit intriguing rituals to safely consume potentially poisonous food. Indian monkeys, for instance, seek charcoal as a means to adsorb toxins from their bodies after certain leaves and fruits with phenolic compounds have been ingested. Similarly, in Brazil, macaws consume poisonous Euphorbiaceae seeds for essential protein; this is followed by eating white clay to aid
in the expulsion of toxins from their bodies.

In Bengaluru’s history, the avarae kaalu emerges as a symbol of a timeless love affair that has indelibly shaped the city’s narrative. According to legend, during the 12th century, King Vira Ballala II of the Hoysala dynasty found himself astray in what is now Yelahanka and an old woman generously offered him sustenance in the form of cooked beans (benda kaalu) and water. This is said to have laid the foundation for a profound connection between the people of Bengaluru and the avarae kaalu. A celebration of this enduring bond unfolds annually through month-long melas, where the avarae kaalu takes centre stage as the key ingredient in every culinary creation.

As we relish the aromatic delights of avarae kaalu during this festive season, let us appreciate the delicate balance between tradition and science. 

(The writer is a Senior Communications Associate at ATREE)