My wife Geeta and I have been on the road for 15 months. We started our journey on April 23, 2023, from Jaipur, our home city. At age 65, it is quite a big deal for me. I am also a heart patient, and I am partially handicapped. If you ask me, the past year has been the most significant and influential one in my life. I was 64 when we set out, but after undertaking this journey, I have come to realise I had barely lived a full life before.
We have three daughters. During the Dasara of 2022, they gifted us an Isuzu D-max pickup truck. I had been longing to undertake this trip for quite a while. They felt this car would be ideal for this long journey. I had the car converted to become a caravan, a home on wheels. It is a yellow plate commercial vehicle. We opted for this because it was cheaper than a white plate one, which is for private vehicles. However, as it is a commercial vehicle, the speed limit is 80 km.
I researched numerous other caravans online before arriving at a design that would suit us best. Over 37 days, sitting with builders and mechanics, I got solar panels, fans, charging points and a host of other features installed in the car. We also have a portable toilet and a kitchen. I believe I am the only individual in Rajasthan whose vehicle is classified as a ‘caravan’ in its registration certificate.
The road guides us
After the car was ready, we did a few small trips around Jaipur. But the all-India trip began about six months later. We did not have a fixed route in mind. We are seniors, so we did not want to tire ourselves out by sticking to a strict schedule.
I was apprehensive about how my right knee would take it. It was badly injured in a major accident. I was bedridden for two years. I still walk with a limp. However, the car proved to be the right choice. I did not have any pain or discomfort. Initially, my wife was sceptical about joining me on the trip. So I was ready to do it solo. But my daughters convinced her to accompany me. She now enjoys being on the road as much as I do.
We first covered Rajasthan and parts of Uttar Pradesh — towns and cities like Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, Mathura and Vrindavan. Then we moved up north to Uttarakhand — Nainital, Munsiyari and surrounding areas. It was all smooth sailing until we reached Almora. In this picturesque town in the Kumaon hills, the Isuzu’s clutch plate failed. We were disappointed with such a problem so early in our trip. Isuzu does not have a service centre in the northern state. So the vehicle had to be transported to Delhi for repairs. My wife and I got into a cab and headed to Delhi. Thankfully, we got our car back after two days.
This unexpected change in our route saw us heading from Delhi to Haryana, and then Himachal Pradesh and Punjab before we got back to Rajasthan. Our home state is large and there were many places we hadn’t explored. Pushkar and the Mewar region, which covers Udaipur, Bhilwara, Rajsamand and Chittorgarh, were fascinating. From here, we drove to Madhya Pradesh where cities like Ujjain, Indore, Bhopal, Sanchi and Sagar made an impression on us. We also covered Jammu and Kashmir, before driving down to the southern part of India, where we are currently. We are yet to cover Goa, Maharashtra, Gujarat, the northeastern states and Bihar.
Long way to go
My goal is to cover the entire country in 1,111 days. We have not even reached the halfway mark yet. In all the states we visited, we made sure to leave out two or three important spots. This, we think, will motivate us to revisit these regions again. I hope not to stop travelling.
Google Maps tells you the important tourist spots. But it is better to talk to people living in those areas. They tell you the most unique, offbeat places to visit, places you will not find on any map.
Back in the ‘90s
An undertaking this massive is a first, but I am no stranger to adventure. When I was younger, I would ride my bike to the hilly parts around Jaipur. In 1984, I trekked to the Everest base camp, Sandakfu, the Himalayas in Sikkim, and did the Friendship Peak trek in Himachal.
In 1991, I led the Parikrama motorcycle expedition. In those days, bike rides were not common. We travelled to Nepal on Hero Honda motorcycles. Forget Google maps, even roads were non-existent! There was no accommodation nor were there any of the other facilities we now enjoy while travelling. But I was young, confident and always ready to throw caution to the winds.
After I met with an accident in 2000, I had to take it slow. Later I handed my business over to my daughters. It is only now that we are financially comfortable enough to carry out this expedition. For about 18 years, I worked hard to keep my business afloat. I started the business, a brass idol foundry, 35 years ago.
Finding pit stops
We begin our day between 7 and 8 am and try to wind up by 3 pm. Our daily target is 600 km. It is much less in hilly areas. We reach our destination and look for the ideal pit stop — a safe and quiet place to rest for the night. We try to stick to places like police station grounds, panchayat premises, school and college grounds, and sometimes, parking slots in resorts.
Our age is in our favour. Because we are in our 60s, people tend not to trouble us. They see us as harmless and let us be. Perhaps we would have faced more problems had we been younger. We have not really been confronted with anything untoward on this journey. But there were some moments when we felt briefly threatened.
While in Peora, Nainital, we were getting ready to sleep. We had parked by the side of a small road. We also had another traveller with us. He was from Noida and had joined us for a few days. It was a quiet night, but in the silence we heard the sound of a cow mooing. It was quite loud. A few minutes later, a woman approached us and asked us if we had seen her cow. We later learnt that the bovine had been killed by a leopard a mere 15 metres from where we had camped. It shook us to our core. We have been through many incidents like this. This was only the first.
The highways are in great condition. We have enjoyed smooth drives throughout. But we met with a minor accident in Jammu and Kashmir. On a rainy day, we were driving through an interior village near Gulmarg. It was a narrow road and another car came in from the opposite side. I swerved to avoid it and landed in the shallow gutter on the side. Luckily, there were quite a few people around. They called for assistance and helped get the Isuzu back on the road. People say that the state is not peaceful but we did not feel unsafe. The people were kind and supportive.
In Uttarakhand, we had parked near Dol ashram, a big monastery. A group of drunken young men accosted us and demanded money. We refused and managed to send them away. We also stayed near Bhangarh Fort, in Rajasthan, considered one of the most haunted places in India. We were enthralled by its beauty, and no ghost bothered us!
The Kolvi caves of Rajasthan date back to the 8-9th century. The 50 Buddhist caves located in Jhalawar district are neglected by tourists. But they are stunning. The Maharashtra government has done a great deal to promote and maintain the Ajanta and Ellora caves. I hope the Rajasthan government does something to bring attention to the Kolvi caves.
Eating with locals
Often, when we do not find an empty ground or parking lot to camp at night, we look for places with many houses around. Our caravan makes for a curious sight, with its raised roof and other modifications. People instantly know we are outsiders.
What typically happens is that children come over to examine the car and its occupants. Where the children go the mothers follow. The mothers end up striking up conversations with my wife and a quick friendship is formed. This way we have befriended numerous people across the country. Inevitably, we are invited to eat in their homes. This happens mostly in rural and tribal areas. City folks are indifferent and do not trust so easily.
We happened to visit a local’s house in the interiors of Jodhpur. They cooked us a special meal of dal bati and churma, the local delicacy. It was delicious. But they felt they could not let us leave without some parting gifts. They handed us boxes of Jodhpur sweets and bottles of homemade mango pickle. They said it would come in handy if we ever found ourselves in areas with limited access to food. We have been fortunate to have met kind strangers throughout our journey. The locals we befriended even networked us with their friends and relatives in nearby towns, in case we needed any help. One girl we met invited us to her wedding. We plan to attend it.
Beauty of Kodagu
Of all the places we have seen in the past 15 months, I would say the most beautiful is Kodagu in Karnataka. Places like Shimla and Manali — I never want to visit them again. They are overcrowded. Leh and Ladakh are great for bikers, but I prefer greenery. It has a calming effect on me.
In Munsiyari, we stayed for five days in a forest check post. The forest officers became our friends. We shared our Rajasthani food, cooked by my wife in the caravan. We also got to try some of the food they had brought from their homes. Food is a wonderful way to learn about local culture.
When we complete our trip, it will be 2026. My next big escapade will be a drive from Jaipur to London. This route crosses 19 countries, and I expect it to cost Rs 50-60 lakh.
My long-term goal is to open a small hostel for travellers. Being on the road this long, I realise the difficulties long-haul travellers face. When I have enough money I will open this hostel and not charge a paisa. A basic washroom makes a huge difference to travellers like myself and my wife. That is something that we still lack in India.
(As told to Rashmi Rajagopal)