Okay, suit yourself

French ‘suit connoisseur’ Hugo Jacomet, along with his wife and business partner, Sonya Glen, who host the YouTube show ‘Sartorial Talks’, were in Bengaluru recently, for the centenary celebrations of a clothing brand.

The duo spoke about “what a catastrophe the advent of mass industrialisation and fast fashion is”, at a talk on fashion at the event that celebrated 100 years of garment business PN Rao. Hugo, who is also founder-editor of men’s style magazine Parisian Gentleman, recollects, “Bespoke suits were much larger before the rise of ready-to-wear. Before 1950, there was no mass market, if you wanted a suit you went to a tailor.”

Hugo believes that fashion “comes and goes like the waves of the sea”. Giving the example of the double-breasted suit that had been dead till about 15 years ago, he remembers that “it was something for older people — it gave the image of a banker with a big belly.”

Recently, it has witnessed a revival. He adds that this can also be observed in the notch of the lapel. “In the suits of the 1940s, the notch was inclined very low,” Hugo informs. “But gradually, people started to wear it higher.”

He explains that this has some virtues. “A higher notch elongates your silhouette, making you look taller. But as traders, we take inspiration from the past,” Hugo says, adding, “a good suit, in my opinion, is timeless.”

Tips to remember

Hugo suggests that you should “start simple”, when buying your first suit. “You want the suit to be versatile so you can use it for multiple occasions such as ceremonies or interviews,” he explains. He suggests two colour options — a mid-blue suit that goes with everything, and a grey suit (this could also make you look “older and serious”).

Climate and seasons are also important to factor in when choosing a fabric, informs Hugo. For instance, in warm climates with humid summers, fabric like linen or seersucker cotton is appropriate, he says. The latter has a unique weave that offers better breathability. “The norm is to wear bold colours in summer and neutral ones during winter,” says Hugo.

Hugo believes that matching shoes with your suits is a science. “Dark shoes generally pair well with blue. Black leather is generally recommended for this reason,” he says. “But black is also associated with evening wear,” he adds.

Sonya informs that maintaining a suit is “much easier than people make it out to be”. “You need to get it dry cleaned only once or twice a year,” she adds.

Hugo lists out timeless pieces to add to your collection once you’ve decided to expand your wardrobe. “A blue blazer is a must, as it goes with everything,” he says. “You can also start adding something more refined such as a three-piece suit,” he adds. “For the suit, start with solid colours and move on to patterns slowly,” advises Hugo.

He explains the science behind choosing a pattern. “If you are short, you ought to stretch your vertical line with stripes. This draws the attention of the eye upwards,” he says.

“On the contrary, if you are skinny, you need to work on your horizontal line with wide checks,” Hugo adds.