The pepper queen of Karnataka

The Chaturmukh Basadi temple premises, where the ruins of five temples were found.

The Chaturmukh Basadi, in Gerusoppa, Shivamogga district

The majestic Jog Falls is one of the many gems of the Western Ghats region, but there is more treasure hiding deep within the evergreen forests. Driving in the Ghats is a tedious job, but once you are at Gerusoppa in Shivamogga district, you forget all the inconvenience.

You begin to wonder how people travelled back in the day. Why, spices travelled from here all the way to Portugal, even way back in the sixteenth century.

Gerusoppa is a paradise for nature lovers and heritage enthusiasts alike. Also known as Nagarbastikeri, the quaint town hides behind dense forests. It was the capital of the Saluva dynasty between the 15th and 16th century under the reign of Rani Chennabhairadevi.

Gerusoppa is shrouded in several tales, many connected to the valiant queen Chennabhairadevi. Relics of several other structures, including what is believed to be her palace, are scattered around the place, reminiscent of its rich architectural heritage.

Chennabhairadevi was dubbed ‘Raina de Pimenta’ or ‘The Pepper Queen’ by the Portugese. She is believed to have reigned for 54 years, a rarity.

My interest in the place, the palace and the queen had been piqued ever since I read Mahamandalesvari Rani Chennabhairadevi Mattu Itara Karavali Raniyaru written by Kamala Hampana.

Like Queen Abbakka of Ullal, who also fought the Portuguese, Chennabhairadevi’s story challenges the male-dominated European narrative of Indian rulers. Her long reign was made successful through strategic alliances, trade, and her patronage of art and architecture. She also sheltered people of all religions, including several craftspeople who fled to her kingdom to escape Portuguese persecution.

The Chaturmukh Basadi

Gerusoppa is home to the famous Chaturmukh Basadi, a Jain temple on the banks of the beautiful River Sharavati. It gets its name from the four chambers arising out of its sanctum, each opening in one of the four cardinal directions.

The compound spreads across 700 acres, and it is believed that 108 temples were built here. Today, the remains of about five temples can be found.

The Chaturmukh Basadi is an example of Sarvatobhadra style architecture. The style arises from the time of the Rashtrakuta king Durvinita, who had built a temple in Ballari in the sixth century.

At Gerusoppa’s basadi, one can access the structure from any of the four open entrances. The building is erected on an octagonal cellar, giving it a star shape when viewed from above. Three of the doorways have an idol of a tirthankara in a padmasana posture and the fourth one has the Gajalaxmi.

The rise and fall of Gerusoppa

Temple inscriptions mention Chennabhairadevi’s expansive kingdom, which extended right from Goa to Bhatkal and Karwar, up to Malabar, the tip of Kerala. Gerusoppa gained prominence after it became the capital of her kingdom in the 15th century.

The queen was involved in the spice trade, especially with Portuguese, British, Dutch and African traders. Shiploads of spices, betel nut, timber and sandalwood from this region were traded in exchange for precious metals and stones, making the trade highly lucrative.

Most of the trade happened through the Mirjan port, on the west coast in Uttara Kannada. The queen is believed to have resided in Mirjan fort, making trade easier. Honnavar and Bhatkal were the major ports used for the spice trade.

In 1919, the British even named one of their ships SS Gairsoppa, as a tribute to the town that supplied them with spices and sandalwood for years.

The queen also had good trade relations with the Portuguese in initial years. A record of the Portuguese mentions ways to win her over by being polite and diplomatic.

Over time, the flourishing spice trade became a bone of contention. The Portuguese and the Keladi kings made several attempts to capture Gerusoppa.

Noted Portuguese explorer and traveller Fernao Mendes Pinto’s account states that at one point, the Portuguese even burnt the town of Bhatkal to the ground.

Chennabhairadevi successfully thwarted these attempts twice. She referred to herself as the mahamandaleshwari of the Vijaynagar kings. After the fall of the Vijaynagar empire, however, she was left on her own to defend her kingdom.

The final assault came when the Keladi king joined hands with the Bilagi chieftains to defeat the queen. She was imprisoned at Keladi and died in captivity, ending one of the most shining regimes of a queen.