<p>Composting is not a new-age phenomenon. It is an ancient practice where recycled organic matter is added to the soil to improve fertility. The earliest written material about it is on clay tablets dating from the Assyrian Empire. It talks about converting agricultural waste into manure. Cleopatra recognised the value of earthworms in keeping the soil fertile, and she even decreed their protection.</p>.<p>Indian farmers understood how to compost their farm’s green waste. They excavated large, deep composting pits. They layered the bottom of these pits with plant stalks, hay, and dry leaves. They then piled on it animal manure, cow dung, and cow urine. They continued to alternately fill the pit with leaves and manure until it was three-quarters full. After filling the remaining space with soil, they sealed the cavity. They reopened it a few months later, raked the contents, and used it as compost. Sir Albert Howard, a British agriculturalist who visited India in the early 1900s, observed this and developed the Indore model, considered the mother of all modern models.</p>.<p>A few weeks ago, I reached out to Vasuki Iyengar, who is involved with modern-day composting techniques. He and his SWMRT (Solid Waste Management Round Table, Bengaluru) team are raising awareness about these practices. They compost their green waste and avoid single-use plastic. Vasuki Iyengar has been in this industry for over a decade. I spoke with him to learn about the various composting techniques for urban landscapes. I’ve summarised his composting thoughts below.</p>.<p>Mr Iyengar stated that there are three ways to compost in an urban setting: aerobic, anaerobic, and vermicomposting. The aerobic method breaks down organic waste using air and microbes, whereas the anaerobic method requires microbes but avoids exposure to air. For vermicomposting, earthworms are used.</p>.<p>Vasuki Iyengar promotes container composting, a type of aerobic method. It is simple, dependable, and trouble-free. It has an earthy odour and does not stink. Because the method is aerobic, you must find an aerated space for the container.</p>.<p>There are several critical components to the container composting method. A reasonable-sized container with holes to allow for air circulation is a must. It also requires moisture and microbes to decompose faster. You can use a bucket or a mud pot with a lid as a container. You can even compost in the one-litre ice cream/curd tub. Vasuki refers to them as jugaad bins. Drilling holes on the sides of the container is critical to allowing airflow. Periodic raking and mixing of contents aid in decomposition.</p>.<p>Moisture is essential for the process. Greens provide moisture that browns absorb. Greens are kitchen and food waste that contains water. Crushed dry leaves, coco-peat, compost, and soil are all moisture-absorbing brown elements. You should add browns in equal parts by volume to the greens for uniform composting.</p>.<p>Microbes are the final component of composting, aiding the breakdown of organic waste: sour buttermilk, cow dung slurry, and microbial cocopeat are some microbial stimulators.</p>.<p>Here are the steps to be followed.<br /><span class="bold">Step 1</span>: Begin by layering crushed dry leaves on the bottom of the container.<br /><span class="bold">Step 2</span>: Spread a layer of vegetable or food waste on top. This will help cut vegetable pieces into thin slices for quicker decomposition.<br /><span class="bold">Step 3</span>: Cover with another layer of dry leaves, followed by the microbes: microbial cocopeat, cow dung slurry, or sour curd. Seal the container. Add a layer of kitchen waste, dry leaves, and microbes the next day. Repeat until the bin is nearly full.</p>.<p>The final layer should consist of dry leaves, preventing insects and flies from laying eggs. Close the container and leave it in a corner. Rake the contents a week later. Continue turning the contents every week for a month or two until they shrink in size. The final composted soil is dark brown, has an earthy smell, and is called Black Gold. It is an invaluable addition to your soil and provides nutrition to your plants.</p>.<p>Even if you don’t have a garden, Vasuki Iyengar recommends composting. Give the byproducts to someone in need or to your local park. It is our responsibility to return to the Earth what we have taken from it, he adds. For more information about composting, you can visit the <span class="italic">swachagraha</span> website.</p>.<p><strong><span class="bold">Motley garden</span></strong><em> <span class="italic">is your monthly kaleidoscopic view into a sustainable garden ecosystem.</span></em></p>.<p><em><span class="italic">The author believes that gardening is not just about plants and how to nurture them. It is also about bees, butterflies, insects, flies, and bugs that make it their home. She is on social media as @Neelavanam</span></em></p>
<p>Composting is not a new-age phenomenon. It is an ancient practice where recycled organic matter is added to the soil to improve fertility. The earliest written material about it is on clay tablets dating from the Assyrian Empire. It talks about converting agricultural waste into manure. Cleopatra recognised the value of earthworms in keeping the soil fertile, and she even decreed their protection.</p>.<p>Indian farmers understood how to compost their farm’s green waste. They excavated large, deep composting pits. They layered the bottom of these pits with plant stalks, hay, and dry leaves. They then piled on it animal manure, cow dung, and cow urine. They continued to alternately fill the pit with leaves and manure until it was three-quarters full. After filling the remaining space with soil, they sealed the cavity. They reopened it a few months later, raked the contents, and used it as compost. Sir Albert Howard, a British agriculturalist who visited India in the early 1900s, observed this and developed the Indore model, considered the mother of all modern models.</p>.<p>A few weeks ago, I reached out to Vasuki Iyengar, who is involved with modern-day composting techniques. He and his SWMRT (Solid Waste Management Round Table, Bengaluru) team are raising awareness about these practices. They compost their green waste and avoid single-use plastic. Vasuki Iyengar has been in this industry for over a decade. I spoke with him to learn about the various composting techniques for urban landscapes. I’ve summarised his composting thoughts below.</p>.<p>Mr Iyengar stated that there are three ways to compost in an urban setting: aerobic, anaerobic, and vermicomposting. The aerobic method breaks down organic waste using air and microbes, whereas the anaerobic method requires microbes but avoids exposure to air. For vermicomposting, earthworms are used.</p>.<p>Vasuki Iyengar promotes container composting, a type of aerobic method. It is simple, dependable, and trouble-free. It has an earthy odour and does not stink. Because the method is aerobic, you must find an aerated space for the container.</p>.<p>There are several critical components to the container composting method. A reasonable-sized container with holes to allow for air circulation is a must. It also requires moisture and microbes to decompose faster. You can use a bucket or a mud pot with a lid as a container. You can even compost in the one-litre ice cream/curd tub. Vasuki refers to them as jugaad bins. Drilling holes on the sides of the container is critical to allowing airflow. Periodic raking and mixing of contents aid in decomposition.</p>.<p>Moisture is essential for the process. Greens provide moisture that browns absorb. Greens are kitchen and food waste that contains water. Crushed dry leaves, coco-peat, compost, and soil are all moisture-absorbing brown elements. You should add browns in equal parts by volume to the greens for uniform composting.</p>.<p>Microbes are the final component of composting, aiding the breakdown of organic waste: sour buttermilk, cow dung slurry, and microbial cocopeat are some microbial stimulators.</p>.<p>Here are the steps to be followed.<br /><span class="bold">Step 1</span>: Begin by layering crushed dry leaves on the bottom of the container.<br /><span class="bold">Step 2</span>: Spread a layer of vegetable or food waste on top. This will help cut vegetable pieces into thin slices for quicker decomposition.<br /><span class="bold">Step 3</span>: Cover with another layer of dry leaves, followed by the microbes: microbial cocopeat, cow dung slurry, or sour curd. Seal the container. Add a layer of kitchen waste, dry leaves, and microbes the next day. Repeat until the bin is nearly full.</p>.<p>The final layer should consist of dry leaves, preventing insects and flies from laying eggs. Close the container and leave it in a corner. Rake the contents a week later. Continue turning the contents every week for a month or two until they shrink in size. The final composted soil is dark brown, has an earthy smell, and is called Black Gold. It is an invaluable addition to your soil and provides nutrition to your plants.</p>.<p>Even if you don’t have a garden, Vasuki Iyengar recommends composting. Give the byproducts to someone in need or to your local park. It is our responsibility to return to the Earth what we have taken from it, he adds. For more information about composting, you can visit the <span class="italic">swachagraha</span> website.</p>.<p><strong><span class="bold">Motley garden</span></strong><em> <span class="italic">is your monthly kaleidoscopic view into a sustainable garden ecosystem.</span></em></p>.<p><em><span class="italic">The author believes that gardening is not just about plants and how to nurture them. It is also about bees, butterflies, insects, flies, and bugs that make it their home. She is on social media as @Neelavanam</span></em></p>