Espresso(ing) a revolution

It has taken a vibrant community of homebrewers, coffee growers, baristas, cafés, and coffee lovers to cultivate the rich, smooth, and aromatic coffee culture in India’s coffee capital, Bengaluru, says Madhulika Dash.

It is a two billion industry globally with an annual growth rate pegged at two to three per cent. It is the second most valuable export worldwide. And, since the bean’s discovery, it has managed to retain the status of the drink of the “rich and evolved,” India included. We even used it to raise a cup of revolt to the tea-loving British!

However, despite the long-standing love for coffee and the cultural significance of filter coffee, it wasn’t until recently that Bengaluru transformed into a recognised “coffee capital.”

Abhinav Mathur, owner of Something’s Brewing, reflects on this shift, stating, “For long, coffee making and drinking oscillated between insipidness of commercially produced instant coffee and the set pattern dictated by the international cafés. If not traditionally made, and this included the one popularised by the Indian Coffee Houses, it remained a bitter-sour drink that could only be enjoyed with milk and enough flavouring to mask the bitterness of the bean.” 

The Dalgona effect

The coffee landscape began to change dramatically with the rise of Dalgona coffee during the pandemic. Ashish D’abreo, a Q-grader and co-founder of Maverick & Farmer, explains, “The whipped, milk-heavy coffee phenomenon ignited interest in quality coffee. With people confined to their homes, many became homebrewers and enthusiasts eager to explore the bean’s potential.”

Surprisingly, says Ashish, “the popularity of a whipped, milk-heavy coffee paved the ground for good quality coffee to bloom. The fact that everyone wanted to up their game and the time in hand kickstarted the second innings for coffee, with many a homebrewer, coffee enthusiast, plantation owner and Baristas using the opportunity to talk about the bean and its infinite possibilities.”

As a result, post-pandemic, cafés in Bengaluru saw a surge of patrons who had experimented with quality coffee and were ready to elevate their brewing skills. This newfound curiosity led to the emergence of innovative spaces where individuals could brew, taste, and discover what truly pleased their palates.

Notable examples include Be Your Own Baristas at Something’s Brewing, the self-brewing Play Bar at Blue Tokai Café, and the cutting-edge Sensory Bar at Araku Café.

Community-driven change

While still niche, a curious community of coffee novices, enthusiasts, and homebrewers began to take shape. Mathur emphasises, “This group spurred significant innovation in the coffee industry. Customers sought an experience that transcended traditional machine-made espresso. Instead, they craved an engaging ritual that resulted in a superior brew.”

This shift was not limited to cafés, it also transformed the coffee industry at the plantation level. Growers began receiving feedback from a passionate community of coffee lovers, fostering a wave of innovation across the sector.

As Ashish notes, “Speciality brands like Blue Tokai and Third Wave Coffee had to devise unique brewing methods and offerings that catered to evolving tastes while encouraging consumers to explore new options.”

The wine-coffee crossover

One of the most intriguing developments in this coffee renaissance is the crossover between wine and coffee. Coffee producers introduced a range of flavour profiles by embracing fermentation techniques. Ashish shares, “We were among the pioneers experimenting with fermentation, using the cherry’s sugary component to enhance mouthfeel and flavour. This led to popular varietals like Ol’ Smoky, What an Ale, which used yeast in the process, and Two Beans in a Pod, which has a hint of cacao, a plant that is now part of the coffee growing topography across Karnataka.”

The fermentation method, along with innovations like brew bags and home brewing kits, revolutionised Bengaluru’s coffee scene. Coffee could now be tailored from the very beginning of the production process to align with consumers’ tastes, enhancing the overall drinking experience.

For example, Chandini D Purnesh, founder of Lunybee, highlights their banana-fermented coffee, which possesses a distinct sweetness and aroma derived from local banana varieties grown on their estate. Similarly, they use firewood from fruit trees to create smoked coffee, enriching the flavour profile.

When tech is added to the brew

While fermentation has been a significant factor in the coffee evolution, technological advancements have also played a critical role. Chandini, a fifth-generation coffee grower, notes that although traditional methods dominate coffee farming, innovative practices have emerged, particularly in plant maintenance and post-harvest techniques. “These changes allow us to boost production without sacrificing quality, preserving the rich, consistent taste of shade-grown beans.”

Furthermore, the integration of AI in coffee production has transformed the industry. Using AI-driven data, coffee growers and baristas can better understand evolving consumer preferences and refine their skills. Chandini explains, “We’ve seen baristas work alongside growers and micro-roasters to enhance the coffee experience. This includes fine-tuning elements like water temperature, grind size, and brewing techniques to create a personalised drinking experience.” Additionally, brands like Subko are focusing on backward integration with small coffee growers to provide high-quality, traceable coffee that showcases the unique flavours of its origin. The result is a more connected and conscious coffee culture.

Home brewing revolution

At the heart of this renaissance are innovative home brewing tools. Mathur mentions the impact of devices like the French Press and Moka Pot, which have made home brewing an enjoyable experience. The latest innovation, the Budan One Touch, uses AI to adapt to various coffee grounds, ensuring a consistently tailored brew.

The renewed interest in coffee is also fuelled by its health benefits, giving rise to a market for functional coffee beverages. Like the shroom coffee, made from mushroom extract and homegrown coffee grounds, which caters to health-conscious consumers.

(The author is a seasoned food columnist and curator of experiential dining experiences, pop-ups and retreats for chefs.)